TPS question/Stumble problem?!
Printed From: Brock's Performance
Category: StreetSmart Owners Section (Private)
Forum Name: StreetSmart Owners Talk
Forum Description: A place for StreetSmart Owners to talk GOING FAST.....amongst themselves!
URL: https://forums.brocksperformance.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=446
Printed Date: April/25/2025 at 4:55pm
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Topic: TPS question/Stumble problem?!
Posted By: BusaReds
Subject: TPS question/Stumble problem?!
Date Posted: January/25/2005 at 6:37pm
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Hey Brock, I got the whole street smart system installed. Also added the ram air seals. My bike is an 04 LE with 979 miles on it now. I rode the bike after the install and it felt great. One thing I noticed though is that when I took off from a stop and got the bike movin to about 3000rpms and then rolled the throttle aggressively (not snapping it) it seemed like it misses real quick at like 4000-4500rpms and then continues on as fast as it happens its gone. But it happens enough to where I definately feel it and hear it. I have my idle set at about 1250 by the tach, i didnt set it using a digital meter. On the tach its between 1000 and the 1500 hash mark. With all the talk in reference to the TPS and setting it at what idle rpm's could this have any relation to my problem? Does it matter what my idle is when and if i was to set it? And could it be effected because I prefer a raised idle setting? Or is this just a characteristic of your system or the PC map and its power curve which is designed more for high output gains?
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Replies:
Posted By: Brock
Date Posted: January/27/2005 at 1:42pm
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BusaReds, The higher idle should have no effect on the area where you are describing your problem. The first place we look if a bike stumbles or surges is the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) adjustment. For some strange reason, nearly EVERY TPS setting we check on 2002 and newer Hayabusa's is adjusted INCORECTLY from the factory?! The 99-01’s were usually spot-on…. We suggest using your service manual and a paper clip for the first check. There is a white connector with a black plastic cover located behind your right rear side cover. You can sometimes get to it from the trunk. Other times, it is wire tied to the frame which requires the removal of the side cover for access. Jump across the connector with paper clip. The manual shows a mode select switch - the paper clip does the same job! Once you turn on the key, "COO" should show on your instrument display. The dash should be in the middle position. Twist the throttle to watch it move. After you twist the gas, it should return to the middle position. If it doesn’t, you must adjust the TPS sensor located on the side of the throttle bodies. This requires a safety Torx bit. It the TPS is set too low, larger throttle openings won’t receive enough fuel. This usually creates a lean stumble. If it is too high, too much fuel is supplied at smaller openings creating a surge effect which hampers drivability and hurts fuel economy. Try this first and let me know what you discover. All Brock’s Performance maps are created with the TPS set at zero AND the stock ECU set at zero with a Yoshimura clicker box…this will be area number two to address, if required. We have seen brand new bikes with the stock ECU adjusted to something besides zero? Of course, this will add or subtract fuel from our map…..the good news is that 9 times out of 10, drivability issues are associated with an incorrectly adjusted TPS. With the above set correctly, your drivability should be SMOOTHER than stock! No kidding. Please do not assume that you should EVER settle for less than perfection with our products…..if this were the case, we would not sell or USE them ourselves! Brock |
Posted By: BusaReds
Date Posted: January/28/2005 at 3:28pm
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As we discussed it was OFF........
I adjusted it. OVER.....and OVER......and OVER........and finally it came in right. Just opening the throttle and letting it snap shut will give you different readings than opening and closing softly if its off. Its a pain but its worth it!!!!! I also found that my adjust was the most stable when i could pull the fast idle lever and it would still be sitting at -COO like at the normal closed throttle position. This way it seems that you are getting the most use of the complete variance of the resistor that monitiors the position before it raises the bar. This seemed to help with the contraction and expansion effect of the engine heat in altering the adjustment while the bie is running at normal temps. The stumble is gone and so is the feeling in my cheeks from smiling and freezing in that position. Its 17 degrees here in MD today (plus a 130mph wind chill LOL), but i had to check it out so i could throw the blanket over it knowing its ready and let it sleep till opening day at Capitol Raceway or MIR who ever goes first.....LOL Thanks Brock |
Posted By: Brock
Date Posted: January/31/2005 at 10:19am
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GREAT! Brock |
Posted By: BrickBusa
Date Posted: January/31/2005 at 9:33pm
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Hey Brock, after reading this post, I had to check mine... sure enough it was off... after ajusting it a few time's I got it on... WOW! what a big difference it made! THANK's Brock |
Posted By: 04limited
Date Posted: February/16/2005 at 9:33pm
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Busareds, Capitol opens Sunday March 6. I'm there almost all summer long. Rick |
Posted By: atticdog
Date Posted: February/17/2005 at 5:51pm
Quote: Originally posted by BusaReds on January 28 05
isnt that like twisting the throttle ? |
Posted By: BusaReds
Date Posted: February/20/2005 at 1:39pm
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yeah but it is ever so little. It just gives you an idea of how far you can go and where the adjustment you made is within the tolerances.........
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Posted By: gsxr kid
Date Posted: May/27/2005 at 5:41pm
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so does this apply to the 1000's? ------------- talk to you when i stop cause you won't catch up |
Posted By: EDSBUSA
Date Posted: June/29/2005 at 8:44pm
| How do you adjust the TPS, i found that mine was off also, but i'm not mechanically intuned, any help would be appreciated. |
Posted By: 04limited
Date Posted: June/30/2005 at 12:53pm
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EDSBUSA, Below is a copy of BROCK's post on this issue. If you are in the Maryalnd area and need more help let me know. I'm at Capitol Raceway in Crofton, MD. every Saturday. I have all the tools needed to check and set your TPS. I also use my laptop and the power commander software to verify results and settings. I'm no expert but Brock and folks here have taught me alot.
There is a white connector with a black plastic cover located behind your right rear side cover. You can sometimes get to it from the trunk…other times it is wire tied to the frame which requires the removal of the side cover for access. Jump across the connector with paper clip. The manual shows a mode select switch, the paper clip does the same job! Once you turn on the key –COO should show on your instrument display. The dash should be in the middle position. Twist the throttle to watch it move. After you twist the gas, it should return to the middle position…if it doesn’t you must adjust the TPS sensor located on the side of the throttle bodies. This requires a safety Torx bit. It the TPS is set too low…larger throttle openings won’t receive enough fuel. This usually creates a lean stumble. If it is too high, too much fuel is supplied at smaller openings creating a surge affect which hampers drivability and hurts fuel economy. Try this first and let me know what you discover. All Brock’s Performance maps are created with the TPS set at zero AND the stock ECU set at zero with a Yoshimura clicker box…this will be area number two to address if required. We have seen brand new bikes with the stock ECU adjusted to something besides zero? Of course this will add or subtract fuel from our map…..the good news it that 9 times out of 10 drivability issues are associated with an incorrectly adjusted TPS. |
Posted By: EDSBUSA
Date Posted: June/30/2005 at 11:57pm
| Hey man thanks, i think i got it now, all i do is turn the torx screw to zero it in. Im in GA by the way. |
Posted By: EDSBUSA
Date Posted: July/03/2005 at 1:30pm
So far not fixed. Zero'd it in, i give it full gas let off, it goes up and then back to the middle. But its still stumbling. Like around 1800-2200 it stumbles, then again somewhere between 4 & 5K. Its starting to piss me off.
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Posted By: tommy2671
Date Posted: July/06/2005 at 8:06am
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EDSBUSA WHAT ALL DO YOU HAVE DONE TO THE BIKE? ------------- 2008 KAWASAKI ZX14 (ALL BROCKED OUT) |
Posted By: Doyle Harvey
Date Posted: July/06/2005 at 4:38pm
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I had the same problem with my 02 busa. It stumbled around 3500-4000rpm. I adjusted the tps, still no good. Tried different maps. Better, but still not very smooth cruising around town. Sometimes very hard to start also? After 3 months of dealing with this frustration I had my ecu zeroed out with a Yosh. clicker box and reloaded the 027b map. WOW, Its PERFECT. Feels like a new machine. Very responsive, and no stumble. Starts great also. Hope this helps. ------------- DHarvey |
Posted By: macadocious
Date Posted: August/15/2005 at 9:39pm
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i have a 01 gsxr1000 and i am trying to dial in my TPS. should the bike be running or off. as soon as i get the dash in the middle it moves when i tighten the screw down. can the bike be ridden if i can't get it dialed in. by the way, how can i get the C29 error to go away. do i have to uninstall the map and reinstall. i don't understand how all this happened. the bike ran good last wednesday. i took it out of the trailor on thursday and when i did the secondary Tps was out of adjustment. it had a C28 code. when i fixed the C28 code, the C29 code came up. can someone please help... ------------- FEENIN FOR 06 SEASON TO START |
Posted By: macadocious
Date Posted: September/29/2005 at 11:05pm
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if i got the (bar) to go back to the middle and i am still getting a c29 error code. does that mean the tps is bad? i ran the bike for about two weeks and it was fine. yesterday at test and tune it would not start twice and it sputtered real bad, plus the whine you get when the fuel pump primes itself wasn't as long as it usually is. i thought it was something else so i ran the bike. i tried to run the bike to see if it would clear up and it did as long as it was over 4000rpm's. it actually ran faster than usual. anything under 4000 and it was like trying to ride a bull. can someone please help. ------------- FEENIN FOR 06 SEASON TO START |
Posted By: lot boy
Date Posted: March/15/2006 at 8:23pm
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i dont mean to hi jack this thread but i also have a stumble at around 3k on my busa. I did check the tps and mine was good from the factory. ( guess i got lucky) It doesnt happen every time, but it is there. Feels alot like the surge effect some one discribed. My idle is about 1100 and its a stock bike other than a pc and your sweet street smart package. Its nothing i cant live with but any input would be cool :) I guess maybe i should check the plugs (about 6k miles on stock set)
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Posted By: wfperformance
Date Posted: January/25/2007 at 8:26pm
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hey brock when i put in the paperclip jump over my bike begins to iddle higher than normal , is that ok ?? i hope so pls let me know thx |
Posted By: *EJ*
Date Posted: January/31/2007 at 10:55am
| The bike should not be running when setting the TPS. |
Posted By: scared
Date Posted: July/07/2007 at 11:39am
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This clicker box... Where is it available from? Or better yet, what is it? I have to say I am less than happy with how the bike runs except around more than half throttle. |
Posted By: scared
Date Posted: July/07/2007 at 5:23pm
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Well. After the tps adjustment (which is VERY simple by the way) The hesitation around 4,000 rpm is pretty much gone. Low end has a little, but takes a little snap of the throttle and it goes away. I'm assuming this is the nature of this system? Bike definatly has more power even in the low end (judging on how easily the front wants to come up now. Is t normal for the bike to feel more "sudden" during acceleration instead of steady like stock? |
Posted By: Supergank
Date Posted: October/24/2007 at 8:40pm
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HEY JUST CHECKED MY 07 AND IT WAS OFF TOO!!! TOOK ABOUT 5 MINUTES TO SET..AIN`T RODE IT YET BECAUSE IT`S RAINING HERE SO MAYBE TOMORROW ??? ------------- mullinperformance.com |
Posted By: INKMAN411
Date Posted: November/21/2007 at 3:46pm
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Checked the tps on my 06 this morning and it was off like so many others are. Easy to set per brocks instructions and seems a little better, but right around the 3000rpm mark it's still got a little hesitation. I also had to adjust my idle. Next is to find who around me has a yosh. clicker box to set the ecu. Hope that does the trick. |
Posted By: Brock
Date Posted: November/22/2007 at 11:06am
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Did you adjust the TPS in the power commander software also after you set it correctly in dealer mode? Also, dirty injectors will cause hesitation even with both of the above set correctly. The owners' groups covers this in more detail. BD |
Posted By: INKMAN411
Date Posted: November/28/2007 at 2:34pm
| Hey Brock, no I cant say that I did. How do I go about doing that? |
Posted By: Elganja
Date Posted: December/29/2007 at 12:34pm
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is the adjustment the same for a 2008 busa? there is a white connector that has 4 wires going into it and a black connector that has 4 wires going into it. The black one has a black cover on it while the white one has a white cap on it... not sure which one is suppose to be jumper'd... |
Posted By: Brock
Date Posted: December/29/2007 at 12:42pm
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Yes, You just need to jump the correct two wires....not sure which ones as I am answering from home. Call my office on Monday and ask for Jason...but you really can't mess it up. If you have the correct wires, the bar should show up on the cluster. Open and close the throttle to watch it go up and down. It should stop in the middle position. If it doesn't, adjust the TPS. WARNING!!! The 08 has 2 TPS adjustments! DO NOT adjust the one which controls the secondary throttle plates! If in doubt, purchase a service manual. Brock |
Posted By: Elganja
Date Posted: December/29/2007 at 5:10pm
Quote: Originally posted by Brock on December 29 07 For a frame of reference here is what I am looking at: Maybe I am looking in the wrong place, but I don't see a white connector on the other side... |
Posted By: INKMAN411
Date Posted: January/01/2008 at 5:29pm
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Just finished setting the tps on the power commander to match the bike and that took care of the 3000 rpm stumble. It also eliminated the off idle hesitatation. With (computer) hooked up to the bike, throttle % showed 1% at idle rather than 0. Amazing that little 1% correction would make that big a change. Brock, thanks for the heads up on checking the tps. Not only on the bike, but also matching it to the pcIII as well. |
Posted By: Elganja
Date Posted: January/02/2008 at 11:21pm
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got mine adjusted today finally. In the dealer mode it was already perfect no change there... But in the pc3usb it was showing @ 2% so I had to adjust that. Now it reads a perfect 0% with no throttle and a perfect 100% for full throttle. Here is a last pic showing what I had to jump for the 2008 busa (to get in COO mode): 
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Posted By: Rhythm
Date Posted: February/05/2008 at 1:19pm
Quote: Originally posted by Brock on November 22 07I'm confused, is this for the 08 model or earlier models. Setting them both! ------------- If it ain't broke, don't fix it! 
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Posted By: Rhythm
Date Posted: February/05/2008 at 1:22pm
Quote: Originally posted by Brock on November 22 07Set both TPS, I'm confused here? Does this apply to 08 or earlier models using an USB PCIII ? ------------- If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
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Posted By: jasongillum
Date Posted: February/05/2008 at 1:24pm
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All Years ------------- Jason Gillum |
Posted By: Rhythm
Date Posted: February/05/2008 at 1:26pm
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Fug! Good LQQkn out.
------------- If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
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Posted By: Rhythm
Date Posted: February/05/2008 at 1:29pm
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I know how to set the bike TPS, however I never attempt this with my USB PCIII. What do I have to do, and do I have to recalibrate my bike first or leave it alone if its reading fine? ------------- If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
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Posted By: Rhythm
Date Posted: February/06/2008 at 4:03am
Quote: Originally posted by Brock on December 29 07 Brock, which two wires do I need to jump on the USB PCIII?
Thank you ------------- If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
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Posted By: jasongillum
Date Posted: February/06/2008 at 2:34pm
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For the pc3usb there are no wires to jump. Hook a computer to your power commander with the supplied usb cable. Start bike. Open the PC3usb program on you computer. Click Power Commander Tools at the top left of the page. Click set throttle position. There will be three boxes with numbers in them. The middle box will have an arrow pointing to the left box and an arrow pointing to the right box. The middle number will change frequently but the outside boxes will stay constant. Click the arrow pointing to the left box and the number that was in the center box when you clicked will now be in the left box. Click ok. Disconnect power commander and replace seat. ------------- Jason Gillum |
Posted By: Rhythm
Date Posted: February/06/2008 at 11:53pm
 ------------- If it ain't broke, don't fix it!
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Posted By: skyhip
Date Posted: April/03/2008 at 2:37pm
| need help locating tps wire to jump 06limited |
Posted By: mmarks66busa
Date Posted: May/18/2008 at 7:31pm
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Thanks for the forum and advice. I have an 07, the dash was on the bottom. After a couple of tries I managed to keep in the middle. Thanks Brock, EJ, and Jason ------------- mmarks66busa |
Posted By: 2K-Otic
Date Posted: May/18/2008 at 11:03pm
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I was having problems with my 06...horrible fuel mileage, extreme richness, and surging. Checked the TPS, and sure enough it was off. It was REAL easy to adjust. The only thing is I was looking on the right side of the bike for the connector. It was on the left side on my bike. The TPS itself did not look like the picture in the factory service manual. The manual showed a sensor that had two safety torx heads that needed to be loosened. Mine had a sensor that only had one regular torx screw, and it rotated in a boss on the side of the number one throttle body. That was somewhat confusing, but once figured out it was easy. I also reset my PC3r...it was showing 1% after adjusting the TPS. Seems to have made a big difference. The surging is gone and the exhaust doesn't smell like raw fuel. My fuel mileage has come back up to much closer to pre modification levels...32mpg vs. 24mpg on the open road (027d map by the way). Thanks for the advice. |
Posted By: mmarks66busa
Date Posted: May/19/2008 at 6:23pm
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Jason, So do I still need a tech with a yosh clicker box, or can this be done with the PC3 software? ------------- mmarks66busa |
Posted By: jasongillum
Date Posted: May/20/2008 at 8:48am
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The Yosh clicker box will set your factory ECU fuel mapping to ZERO. The only thing the PC3 software can do is set your throttle positions to zero and 100, but the TPS on your bike must be calibrated to the middle bar on the heads up display, before any of this is done. ------------- Jason Gillum |
Posted By: Attiliod
Date Posted: May/20/2008 at 7:15pm
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So you are saying that is all you do for an 08? (see below) No jumping wires to set the TPS on the bike? Has anyone thought of doing a pictorial of TPS setting on 08 Busa (TPS settings for dummies, lol) For the pc3usb there are no wires to jump.Hook a computer to your power commander with the supplied usb cable.Start bike.Open the PC3usb program on you computer.Click Power Commander Tools at the top left of the page.Click set throttle position.There will be three boxes with numbers in them.The middle box will have an arrow pointing to the left box and an arrow pointing to the right box.The middle number will change frequently but the outside boxes will stay constant.Click the arrow pointing to the left box and the number that was in the center box when you clicked will now be in the left box.Click ok.Disconnect power commander and replace seat. |
Posted By: *EJ*
Date Posted: May/23/2008 at 11:32am
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Attiliod, You should still make sure the TPS is correct on the throttle bodies by using the heads up display in dealer mode. |
Posted By: apples
Date Posted: May/24/2008 at 1:33am
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I am having stumbilng problems like everyone else. So to relieve these symptoms I should zero the tps sensor with the heads up display, then the usb power commander, then have the ecu zeroed with a yosh clicker box? Should I bring the bike to a Suzuki dealer to have the ecu zeroed, or can I purchase a clicker box and do it myself? ------------- under 10 |
Posted By: *EJ*
Date Posted: May/27/2008 at 9:31am
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apples, you can do it yourself but the price of the Yosh clicker box to use it once is pretty expensive. Dealer would be better, only takes about 5 min. |
Posted By: apples
Date Posted: June/08/2008 at 11:49pm
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Thanks EJ for the reply, I'm so pleased with the service from you guys ------------- under 10 |
Posted By: BUSA08
Date Posted: July/08/2008 at 11:57am
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Which connection under the seat do you use White or Black then which color wires do you jump out in the connection? 2008 BUSA Kevin |
Posted By: jasongillum
Date Posted: July/08/2008 at 12:11pm
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white connector...black/white and white/red ------------- Jason Gillum |
Posted By: BUSA08
Date Posted: July/08/2008 at 12:50pm
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Jason, I have the service manual and it says to have the bike running when checking the TPS well doing it this way I read - COO dash in middle, When I do the test with just the ingition on I read _COO which do I do? 2008 BUSA Kevin |
Posted By: BUSA08
Date Posted: July/08/2008 at 1:09pm
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OK, I set it to -COO with just ignition on, with the bike running I show - at the top of the scale is this OK? Tried to set throttle to zero closest I can come is 1% onPCUSBIII any I ideals on what I need to do? Kevin |
Posted By: jasongillum
Date Posted: July/08/2008 at 1:38pm
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You need to have the bike running, if it reads in the middle you are fine. Then turn the bike off. Pull the jumper wire and replace cap. Hook your PC3usb to your computer and start your bike. At idle it will have a number in the middle that is jumping around...click left and it will set your throttle position on your POWER COMMANDER not your bike. Please call our office if you have any other questions. I hope this helps
------------- Jason Gillum |
Posted By: BUSA08
Date Posted: July/08/2008 at 2:40pm
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Jason, I got everything where it should be. THANKS!
Kevin
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Posted By: kawaking
Date Posted: October/31/2008 at 10:36pm
| Hi I want to set my TPS wile readintg the exact voltage ! it has to be ! after setting mine it helped alot but I want it more accuratly ! I still feel a stumble or I am going nuts ! this is for a 2005 hayabusa !!!!!! |
Posted By: jasongillum
Date Posted: November/03/2008 at 9:02am
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You should not have a stumble...your injectors may be dirty. ------------- Jason Gillum |
Posted By: kawaking
Date Posted: November/03/2008 at 4:46pm
| I will check them out thank you ! |
Posted By: fubar569
Date Posted: April/16/2009 at 1:39pm
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Figured this might be worth ressurecting from the dead... I am tidying up my StreetSmart Install and overall i am VERY impressed with all the support i received AND the performance of the exhaust... I am having a minor issue with a surge/bucking at very low throttle between 2-3k rpm...basically if i keep the throttle just a hair open or keep it constant the bike wishes to surge/buck...if i let off or accelerate all is well... I have set the bike's TPS per instruction (always returns to middle dash after throttle movement), and set the PCIII tps to match the bike. with EcuEditor data monitoring the TPS reads between 1.2-1.9% at ~1150rpm...and PCIII tps reads 1%...if i zero the PCIII tps i notice a stumble just off idle...matching the 2 (PCIII and bike) produces a cleaner move off idle...i also disabled Yoshbox Compensation in the ECU itself...NO fueling changes were made from stock, however the ignition maps i flashed allowed removal of the TRE... the surge/bucking was reduced by each successive step taken but is still present. WOT feels absolutely amazing... I'm wondering if further tweaking would resolve the issue, if i am just a wee bit picky (as i can faithfully reproduce the surge/buck over and over), or if further measures should be taken (i.e. injector cleaning, maintenance, etc)... I will report back after i double check a couple things |
Posted By: jasongillum
Date Posted: April/16/2009 at 2:46pm
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You should find MR11 or MR9 and run a few gallons through your bike. It sounds like you have dirty injectors. Please let me know if this helps. ------------- Jason Gillum |
Posted By: fubar569
Date Posted: April/16/2009 at 4:03pm
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I actually tried something not exactly recommended... It wasn't a ping i was feeling or a lean misfire...so that left one other possibility... I began to alter some cells within the map...spcifically some 0-2-5% and between 1500-2500rpm. I leaned the suspect cells out 1-2% at a time and verified the change in behavior with road testing. With each successive change the stumble gradually subsided until the present condition in which it is almost un-noticable. I do not plan to make any further changes until i can get some time on a dyno to verify AFR and have the ECU flashed with the tune. I do not wish to reinvent the wheel nor cause any damage. The bike feels much better after the changes. I will also attempt to locate the MR9/MR11 fuel and clean the fuel system anyways. at ~4500mi it's probably due... |
Posted By: fubar569
Date Posted: April/16/2009 at 8:44pm
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slight update: the off idle stumble has been greatly reduced by making very minute changes to specific cells on the map. it is ever minutely present but so insignificant it isn't worth mentioning. the surge/bucking is still present but typically only 2250-3000rpm. acceleration is fine and deceleration is fine but it's only trying to hold small throttle percentages constant at an rpm below 3000 when the bucking occurs. Almost as if the power is either on or off...the bike wants you to either move or stop. i cannot feel anything else anywhere else in the RPM range (including right up to 11k). strange... I'll have to poke around and source some MR9/MR11 and take a little cruise with some in the tank and see if that helps. |
Posted By: fubar569
Date Posted: April/17/2009 at 7:36pm
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Update: airbox was removed/cleaned, checked, and i scraped & sanded & removed the foam/adhesive from the K&N foam gastets. Reinstalled stock filter, checked MAP (was loose on the box but vac line tight), checked flapper, checked IAT...everything was fine... reinstalled airbox, zero mapped PCIII, Disabled Yoshbox compensation the the stock ECU, reloaded Brock's street map into PCIII and the low stumble came back with surging present. Loaded my slightly modified map and the stumble subsided and the surging seemed to be marginally better but i'll say it was the same. cruising is smooth though...just that surge/bucking below 3k at < 5% throttle or so (holding throttle constant). No response from VP Atlantic as far as distributors for VP fuels. I am in zipcode 16701 if anyone has a dealer list they would like to look at for me. NOTE: this MAY have something to do with the repairs i made to the header as a result of damage from the previous owner. Primary tubes 2 & 3 were "bottom halved" and had new tubing welded in to return them to smooth. they may or may not be exactly match the 1.690 ID of the tubing as calculated from measurements taken during the repair...but they are better than the nearly smashed shut condition i received them in. - that being the case it is likely the map might need minute changes to compensate or cylinder trim adjusted. just a thought... |
Posted By: jasongillum
Date Posted: April/20/2009 at 8:56am
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Is your flapper still connected to the airbox? If so you need to remove it. http://brocksperformance.com/Instructions/Hayabusa/Air%20Box%20Mod_web.doc">http://brocksperformance.com/Instructions/Hayabusa/Air%20Box%20Mod_web.doc Check this to see if this helps out. ------------- Jason Gillum |
Posted By: fubar569
Date Posted: April/20/2009 at 10:06am
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Everything was done per the instructions in that document. I've removed the foam gaskets from the K&N and sanded those areas back smooth and completely removed all debris from the airbox. velocity stacks are ok, no holes or loose fittings that i can tell... VP Atlantic hasn't gotten back to me yet. I'm gonna make a phone call later today... |
Posted By: jasongillum
Date Posted: April/20/2009 at 10:44am
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We do not recommend the K&N filters. They are not very consistent as far as the oiling process. When the filter is brand new, it has a lot of oil in it...as is dries out, it causes problems with mapping. We recommend the stock filter ONLY. Have you tried this? Please let me know ------------- Jason Gillum |
Posted By: fubar569
Date Posted: April/20/2009 at 1:47pm
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went to the stock filter immediately after the exhaust was installed. I had initially left the foam 'gaskets' that came with the K&N in place but have since removed those and sanded smooth any remaining adhesive residue and then cleaned the airbox of all debris and reinstalled the stock filter again. |
Posted By: jasongillum
Date Posted: April/20/2009 at 2:20pm
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It sounds to me like your injectors are dirty. Please clean them with MR11 MR9 or MRX01 as soon as you can find it. This should resolve your issue. Please let me know the outcome once the fuel is ran through the bike. ------------- Jason Gillum |
Posted By: fubar569
Date Posted: May/21/2009 at 2:17am
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i finally came to an incident about 5 days ago...bike ran fine in the morning and then wouldn't start at all that night. i checked plugs and they were fouled and wet. i cleaned, dried, and reinstalled and the bike still wouldn't fire...same condition... i pulled open the service manual and it mentioned that if the plugs were wet to try moving one heat range hotter...which is a CR8E...i installed a fresh set of them and bike took off on the first roll and has ran it's absolute best ever since. I have even reloaded the unmodified original brock's map and the stumbling/surging issue is completely GONE... I cannot sense any misfire/ping/stumble/anything anywhere in the RPM range. bike feels A LOT stronger than it ever has... I am going to pull the plugs this weekend and check the condition to verify nothing is out of norm... The only thing that bothers me...even if the plugs check out fine...is i do plan to spray the bike this year...i'm wondering if then i should switch back to CR9E's just to be safe...or if running 93oct plus pulling timing would be enough to keep it under control...either way it seems like the issue has been resolved for now |
Posted By: rashad
Date Posted: February/14/2011 at 12:51am
| sorry to resurrect an old thread.. but any update on this? Could it be possible that the plugs just needed replaced and the fact that the CR8s were new was enough? |
Posted By: fratacci7
Date Posted: November/27/2011 at 1:58am
| Hey brock Yoshimura clicker box ware i can find one |
Posted By: justmaxn
Date Posted: July/05/2012 at 10:23am
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Ok I have a 07 R1 that kicked out the TPS code. I replaced the sensor but now the bike stumbles around 70 mph. Its good up until then. I thought it may be due to the fact that for the first time since I got the bike in 07 I used 87 octane fuel and I usually use 93. Do I need to adjust the TPS on the bike and the TPS settings on the PC3 too? ------------- 07 Yamaha R1, Brocks Dual Undertail Shorty, PClllUSB, Ignition Module, BMC Race Filter, Graves Smog Block Off |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: July/05/2012 at 10:50am
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Yes, especially since you had that sensor replaced, our maps are set up for it to be set at zero. |