Ninja H2 (2015) Test and Race Info.

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REMINDER: All info. in the private section is CONFIDENTIAL.

Please remember that the information in this and all of our information forums is to be used as a guide and not necessarily the final word. All performance-based testing, data gathering, and advice are ‘works in progress’ which are subject to a variety of unknown conditions which can, and most likely will, allow some of the information to change and/or be adjusted. We do the best we can to provide solid, credible results in a timely fashion, but please do not be afraid to try your own ideas… You always have the option to come back to these pages if you lose your way. Also, if you find something that differs from our findings, please let me know. We are more than anxious to hear about legitimate tests results and information to pass on to our customers. E-mail me personally with your findings Bmail@BrocksPerformance.com

If you are NEW to this Thread Read from the BOTTOM UP! 

Thank You

Brock
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Top secret trick, exposed. If your Ninja H2 brake light is illuminating at the half mile mark... that's BAD, Right?!

We slotted our brake lever the first evening after noticing this problem at the Ohio mile.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
07-01-2015
Welcome to the Ninja H2 private area. We will begin populating this section with Ninja H2 info.

To start, I will tell H2 owners two very important things.... these bikes HATE.

1. Heat. Engine heat and ambient heat/humidity. We lost 10-15 RWHP for every 20% the humidity increased in the dyno room. We were also forced to make a pull or two per hour, as the power would tank after the second dyno run. It took us weeks to accomplish testing that should have taken days. The good news is that we were able to combat it fairly well with some ECU/timing mods.

2. Octane. Throw everything you thought you knew about 'blown' engines out the window with this bike. It lost major HP increasing the octane from 89 to 93. 

Here is an example of some of our fuel testing:

We believe Kurve's H2 was delivered with 87 Octane from the dealership?

http://www.brocksperformance.com/images/NinjaH2_First_Fuel_Change.jpg

Here is some Stage 2 ECU testing using MRX02, High(er) Octane (100 Motor Octane) vs. MR12 Low Octane (87 Motor Octane) vs. Shell 89 Octane Pump Gas
www.brocksperformance.com/images/NinjaH2_Full_Race_Prep_FlashedECU_Fuel_Test.jpg
For EXTREME Long term use (minutes at wide open throttle) we would suggest the higher octane, just to be on the safe side. We see no problem with MRX02 or MRX01 for short term use  (drags, short high speeds bursts on the street etc.) We saw no indications of the knock sensors working at any time and the bike left us making more power as it continued to break-in.

Maps for these fuels are available through our Map support Program.

Brock 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Nov 1, 2015

Questions about Ninja H2 set-up at the Ohio Mile...

Answered!

Q. What was your GOAL?

A. To prove the performance potential of our Stage 2 package (Full System with either modular muffler Alien head 2 or Slash Cut) in official timed competition. The plan from the start was to leave the track on Sunday with the fastest Ninja H2, or H2R ever recorded in official competition, after some data gathering at the drag strip on Thursday and some fast shake downs on Saturday. Mission accomplished!

Q. How was the bike set up initially?

A. We generally do not set rubber to a race track unless we are prepared to perform at our best. With the Ninja H2, we actually showed up ‘soft’ on Saturday at the mile – just to gather more data, since we did not know how the bike would perform while rolling (dynamic testing) vs. our 10-12 weeks on the dyno, which only tells MOST of the tale (static or stationary testing). Soft meaning ‘ MRX02’ fuel and 19-44 gearing, which is mathematically the same as the H2R’s 18-42.

Q. What GEARING was used to run 219 MPH?

A. 19-41 on the 219 pass - It’s the tallest we could go with the stock chain/eccentric adjuster. 19-44 or 18-42 is good for about 213 MPH with our Stage 2 Flash (14K high limit) and would be a good choice for ‘larger’ racers. We were fighting power wheelies and instability due to strong crosswinds, we opted for the longest wheelbase allowed vs. the ‘optimum’ gearing… optimum is useless if you can’t ride the bike. FYI: Zack’s 219 run was the ONLY pass all weekend that he stayed in the gas the entire run – all others were aborted due to wind.

Q. What FUEL were you using?

A. As noted, VP’s MRX02 was our ‘soft’ fuel on Saturday. It’s ‘higher’ Octane than the OEM specifies = R+M/2 104 and it’s oxygenated. We then switched to MR12 for the 219 MPH run. BUT WAIT! You can’t do that in a Super Charged bike?! They screamed from the Internet peanut gallery… looks like you can, and we did. It has an R+M/2 octane rating of 93 (the MFG. suggests 90) and it’s oxygenated. We ‘tweaked’ our track Map on Saturday to make sure we had enough fuel to run it safely at those speeds. 

Please note: We have had ‘satellite’ teams testing variations of our MR12 mapping across the country, very successfully, throughout the year. We don’t just dream these idea’s up and test them on our customers. We test, perfect, then distribute.

Q. Why didn’t you run Pump Gas?

A. We were at a RACE… even set up ‘soft’ we don’t show up to run 2^nd best. After the race, we used the data gathered to run the 219 to create a Ohio Mile Pump Gas Map which duplicated the dynamic 12.2-12.3-1 AFR at the mile (which translated to 11.8-1 on the dyno, using the model 250’s A/F pump) for the guys who don’t want to spend the $ on expensive race fuel. Both the  ‘Ohio Mile’ map and an ‘Ohio Mile Pump Gas’ map will be available via our map support system very soon.

Q. Why weren’t you running in a 1000cc class?

A. Quite frankly, the MPS/BG-1000/4 record is held at over 243 MPH by 10 time Fastest Streetbike shootout champion Don Hass on a purpose-built bike (it’s a badass race bike with a headlight and a tail light…) and we simply were not fast enough to take it away from him on our borrowed street bike with all bolt-on parts. The ECTA rules allow a racer to ‘run up’ a class, meaning that we can enter a smaller engine in a larger displacement class (not vice versa), so that’s what everyone does since Don has buried the 1000cc record with his amazing talent and stupid fast Gixxer. FYI: We held the record in the MPS/BG-1650/4 class at 213.57 MPH also for most of the weekend (on a shut-off run), until it was snatched away during one of the very last passes on Sunday (217.91 MPH) by a 300+ HP Hayabusa.  

Q. Why were you running the STOCK WINDSHIELD?

A. Because history, and wind tunnel testing have shown that ANY increase in windshield height, regardless of shape, results in an increase of frontal area – which slows the bike down…

That's it for now - more to come as the questions are presented.
Brock

 -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dec, 2015
How to Dyno an H2

Turn the key on.
Right handlebar: – push MODE button.
Left bar :– push TOP (arrow shape) button UP once.
On dash: under/right KTRC mode will change from 1 to OFF (flashing)
Press MODE button again OFF stays solid
Make run. 

You must do this every time the bike is turned off. 

30 psi in rear tire.

Bike temp should be less than 165 degrees on your pull. The H2's heat soak VERY quickly... by the 3rd pull, it will be done (dropping power).

The bike MUST be tied down - no exceptions. This is not easy. The H2 makes far too much power not to be strapped, dyno numbers will suffer otherwise and this can be dramatic. 

On the left side, we use a soft tie through the swingarm brace. On the right, we use the pipe hanger, if it's in place. If not, a soft tie around frame/foot works best.

5th gear pulls ONLY - go to the rev limiter. It won't hurt anything - don't let the operator lay on the limiter. ( Do not run in 3rd, it's mathematically incorrect for the dyno, 5th is the closest to 1:1, that's what you want)

Have fun!

Brock

Author	Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic
Brock Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group Joined: October/01/2003 Location: Dayton, OH Status: Offline Points: 232	Topic: Ninja H2 (2015) Test and Race Info. Posted: July/01/2015 at 4:07pm
	REMINDER: All info. in the private section is CONFIDENTIAL. Please remember that the information in this and all of our information forums is to be used as a guide and not necessarily the final word. All performance-based testing, data gathering, and advice are ‘works in progress’ which are subject to a variety of unknown conditions which can, and most likely will, allow some of the information to change and/or be adjusted. We do the best we can to provide solid, credible results in a timely fashion, but please do not be afraid to try your own ideas… You always have the option to come back to these pages if you lose your way. Also, if you find something that differs from our findings, please let me know. We are more than anxious to hear about legitimate tests results and information to pass on to our customers. E-mail me personally with your findings Bmail@BrocksPerformance.com If you are NEW to this Thread Read from the BOTTOM UP! Thank You Brock ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Top secret trick, exposed. If your Ninja H2 brake light is illuminating at the half mile mark... that's BAD, Right?! We slotted our brake lever the first evening after noticing this problem at the Ohio mile. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 07-01-2015 Welcome to the Ninja H2 private area. We will begin populating this section with Ninja H2 info. To start, I will tell H2 owners two very important things.... these bikes HATE. 1. Heat. Engine heat and ambient heat/humidity. We lost 10-15 RWHP for every 20% the humidity increased in the dyno room. We were also forced to make a pull or two per hour, as the power would tank after the second dyno run. It took us weeks to accomplish testing that should have taken days. The good news is that we were able to combat it fairly well with some ECU/timing mods. 2. Octane. Throw everything you thought you knew about 'blown' engines out the window with this bike. It lost major HP increasing the octane from 89 to 93. Here is an example of some of our fuel testing: We believe Kurve's H2 was delivered with 87 Octane from the dealership? http://www.brocksperformance.com/images/NinjaH2_First_Fuel_Change.jpg Here is some Stage 2 ECU testing using MRX02, High(er) Octane (100 Motor Octane) vs. MR12 Low Octane (87 Motor Octane) vs. Shell 89 Octane Pump Gas www.brocksperformance.com/images/NinjaH2_Full_Race_Prep_FlashedECU_Fuel_Test.jpg For EXTREME Long term use (minutes at wide open throttle) we would suggest the higher octane, just to be on the safe side. We see no problem with MRX02 or MRX01 for short term use (drags, short high speeds bursts on the street etc.) We saw no indications of the knock sensors working at any time and the bike left us making more power as it continued to break-in. Maps for these fuels are available through our Map support Program. Brock ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Nov 1, 2015 Questions about Ninja H2 set-up at the Ohio Mile... Answered! Q. What was your GOAL? A. To prove the performance potential of our Stage 2 package (Full System with either modular muffler Alien head 2 or Slash Cut) in official timed competition. The plan from the start was to leave the track on Sunday with the fastest Ninja H2, or H2R ever recorded in official competition, after some data gathering at the drag strip on Thursday and some fast shake downs on Saturday. Mission accomplished! Q. How was the bike set up initially? A. We generally do not set rubber to a race track unless we are prepared to perform at our best. With the Ninja H2, we actually showed up ‘soft’ on Saturday at the mile – just to gather more data, since we did not know how the bike would perform while rolling (dynamic testing) vs. our 10-12 weeks on the dyno, which only tells MOST of the tale (static or stationary testing). Soft meaning ‘ MRX02’ fuel and 19-44 gearing, which is mathematically the same as the H2R’s 18-42. Q. What GEARING was used to run 219 MPH? A. 19-41 on the 219 pass - It’s the tallest we could go with the stock chain/eccentric adjuster. 19-44 or 18-42 is good for about 213 MPH with our Stage 2 Flash (14K high limit) and would be a good choice for ‘larger’ racers. We were fighting power wheelies and instability due to strong crosswinds, we opted for the longest wheelbase allowed vs. the ‘optimum’ gearing… optimum is useless if you can’t ride the bike. FYI: Zack’s 219 run was the ONLY pass all weekend that he stayed in the gas the entire run – all others were aborted due to wind. Q. What FUEL were you using? A. As noted, VP’s MRX02 was our ‘soft’ fuel on Saturday. It’s ‘higher’ Octane than the OEM specifies = R+M/2 104 and it’s oxygenated. We then switched to MR12 for the 219 MPH run. BUT WAIT! You can’t do that in a Super Charged bike?! They screamed from the Internet peanut gallery… looks like you can, and we did. It has an R+M/2 octane rating of 93 (the MFG. suggests 90) and it’s oxygenated. We ‘tweaked’ our track Map on Saturday to make sure we had enough fuel to run it safely at those speeds. Please note: We have had ‘satellite’ teams testing variations of our MR12 mapping across the country, very successfully, throughout the year. We don’t just dream these idea’s up and test them on our customers. We test, perfect, then distribute. Q. Why didn’t you run Pump Gas? A. We were at a RACE… even set up ‘soft’ we don’t show up to run 2^nd best. After the race, we used the data gathered to run the 219 to create a Ohio Mile Pump Gas Map which duplicated the dynamic 12.2-12.3-1 AFR at the mile (which translated to 11.8-1 on the dyno, using the model 250’s A/F pump) for the guys who don’t want to spend the $ on expensive race fuel. Both the ‘Ohio Mile’ map and an ‘Ohio Mile Pump Gas’ map will be available via our map support system very soon. Q. Why weren’t you running in a 1000cc class? A. Quite frankly, the MPS/BG-1000/4 record is held at over 243 MPH by 10 time Fastest Streetbike shootout champion Don Hass on a purpose-built bike (it’s a badass race bike with a headlight and a tail light…) and we simply were not fast enough to take it away from him on our borrowed street bike with all bolt-on parts. The ECTA rules allow a racer to ‘run up’ a class, meaning that we can enter a smaller engine in a larger displacement class (not vice versa), so that’s what everyone does since Don has buried the 1000cc record with his amazing talent and stupid fast Gixxer. FYI: We held the record in the MPS/BG-1650/4 class at 213.57 MPH also for most of the weekend (on a shut-off run), until it was snatched away during one of the very last passes on Sunday (217.91 MPH) by a 300+ HP Hayabusa. Q. Why were you running the STOCK WINDSHIELD? A. Because history, and wind tunnel testing have shown that ANY increase in windshield height, regardless of shape, results in an increase of frontal area – which slows the bike down… That's it for now - more to come as the questions are presented. Brock ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dec, 2015 How to Dyno an H2 Turn the key on. Right handlebar: – push MODE button. Left bar :– push TOP (arrow shape) button UP once. On dash: under/right KTRC mode will change from 1 to OFF (flashing) Press MODE button again OFF stays solid Make run. You must do this every time the bike is turned off. 30 psi in rear tire. Bike temp should be less than 165 degrees on your pull. The H2's heat soak VERY quickly... by the 3rd pull, it will be done (dropping power). The bike MUST be tied down - no exceptions. This is not easy. The H2 makes far too much power not to be strapped, dyno numbers will suffer otherwise and this can be dramatic. On the left side, we use a soft tie through the swingarm brace. On the right, we use the pipe hanger, if it's in place. If not, a soft tie around frame/foot works best. 5th gear pulls ONLY - go to the rev limiter. It won't hurt anything - don't let the operator lay on the limiter. ( Do not run in 3rd, it's mathematically incorrect for the dyno, 5th is the closest to 1:1, that's what you want) Have fun! Brock