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Motor Oil 2007- **PLEASE READ**MOBIL 1 - Event Date: January/01/1900 - January/01/1900

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Brock View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Calendar Event: Motor Oil 2007- **PLEASE READ**MOBIL 1
    Posted: August/02/2007 at 2:00pm

Guys, 

Mobil 1 has apparently actually changed the formulation (all weights) of its fully synthetic car oil we have been using for years….. In the past, they only changed the label, but the product worked well. 

We have had a rash of welded clutch pusher assemblies (and damaged clutches) in the first part of 2007. Nearly all can be traced to switching to the “new” Mobil 1. 

Our 2007 Oil advice at this point (in order): 

1. We use our Alisyn <<0 in all of our stock engine bikes. I will be testing a thicker version for general street and big power use very soon. (<<0 has been in my ZX-14 its whole life, and it just made 195 HP last week- one of my friends has had it in his GSX-R1000 for 11K street miles, and he also road races the bike. This oil is the best we have ever found!) 

2. Quaker state 20w-50 (Big CC/Nitrous) or 10w-30 (stock) is organic…..but it works VERY well and is readily available. 

3. Find the highest quality, fully synthetic MOTORCYCLE oil you can; Royal Purple, Red Line, Amsoil, Golden Spectro….etc. We have also had very good results with Motul and Motorex in the past. (BUT- we just had one customer have a clutch pusher weld problem switching to Motorex from Red Line- switched back to Red Line after the repair and the problem went away…so we are as confused as you at the moment about this problem.) 

4. ANY fully synthetic motor oil from ANY motorcycle manufacturer/Dealership (Suzuki, Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha….etc.) will also be a fine choice. 

Note: We try to stay away from all other synthetic car oils as a result of customer problems in the past (Castrol, Kendall, Pennzoil etc. have all caused problems of some type). The organic versions of these brands have also been in question for years...but hell- everything changes and at this point…use your own judgment! 

I hope this helps! 

Brock

 

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote qmizer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/03/2007 at 1:18pm

Hey Brock,THANKS FOR ALL YOU GUYS INPUT AND PRODUCTS!!!! GOT ME RUNNIN THEM BROKE!!!!!

QUESTION IS THIS, I` VE BEEN USING MOBIL 5-30 AND SEEMS LIKE I SHOULD BE SWITICHING TO SOMETHING BETTER, WHERE CAN I GET ALISYN<<0?IS THIS 5-30???   MOST SHOPS AROUND MY AREA DON`T SELL IT,SAYING IT NOT GOOD, BUT IF YOUR USING IT,I GOT TO GET IT. 

Q`s N DA BULIDING
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote qmizer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/03/2007 at 1:21pm

I DON`T  KNOW WHERE TO GET ANY OF THE ALISYN<<0? MY SHOPS AROUND HERE DON`T SELL IT. IS THIS A 5-30 OIL?  WHAT`S THE NEXT BEST OIL TO RUN? WAS USING THE MOBIL 5-30

Q`s N DA BULIDING
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/06/2007 at 4:14pm
quentin, we sell alisyn < o weight here in the shop if you would like you can give us a call and order it through us
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 06busa_LE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/08/2007 at 10:26pm
Isn't Quaker State 10w30 an energy conserving oil? If so, isn't that bad for wet clutches?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JOHNS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/11/2007 at 11:30am

Brock, is the new reccomendation on Mobil 1 only for the car spesific product or does it include their 10W-40 motorcycle oil also (now called racing 4T)? 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/12/2007 at 10:12pm

JOHNS,

We had HP problems in the past with the Mobil 1 bike oil vs. their car oil...that's why we stuck with the car oil.

We now carry <<0, 0W-20,10W-30, 15W-50 and 20W-50 Alisyn oil to help cure this mess.

It may be next week until we have them all listed in our store.

Until then, call to place your order.

937-912-0054

Brock

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

ps. My advice:

1. <<0 for all stock engines in normal climates.

2. 0W-20 for stock engines in warmer climates (AND if you are afraid to use the <<0!!)

3. 10W-30 for modified engines up to 250 HP normally aspirated.

4. 15W-40 Modified engines above 250HP with Nitrous etc.- Billet Crank engines also.

5. 20W-50 for Turbo engines making 500HP or more.....

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gunker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/18/2007 at 11:00pm
Ya i had the welded clutch rod also, have since switched to dino 20-50. It smells better too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote holeshot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/31/2007 at 12:45pm
Based on this thread I swapped out of the Mobil 1 to organic. The organic allows the clutch on the 14 to hook-up so much more that I had to pull 2 of my heavy duty springs and replace them with stock in order to keep the front on the ground. My 60ft went from 1.42 to 1.44, but I think that I may get more life out of my steels as I have tended to warp one or so about every 10 runs. We'll see.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Birdoprey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/02/2007 at 8:43pm

 Hey Brock,

 What is your recomendation for a 200rwhp NA oilcooled 1340? How 'bout with a 50 or so wet shot?

 I was told the oil cooled motors need a thicker oil so the cams/rockers stick around longer...???

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote *EJ* Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/04/2007 at 9:07am
Birdoprey, 15W-50
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Birdoprey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/04/2007 at 9:47pm

*EJ*,

 Which of the above oils comes in that weight, and would work best with the wet clutches?

 Thanks for the reply!

- Mark

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote *EJ* Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/05/2007 at 9:19am
Birdoprey, sorry 15W-40, we have it in Alisyn Pro Drive 21.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hick1300 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/05/2007 at 2:20pm
Did they change the formulation in the synthetic car oil 15w-50 mobil 1 as well?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote *EJ* Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/05/2007 at 2:55pm

hick1300, not sure, if the bottle has Energy Conserving on it then it has been changed.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kawaking Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/07/2007 at 7:51am
hmmm the quakerstate that is organic  can somebody send me a link with the picture of the bottle because I am not sure wich one it is and the guy here on the island sells the oil does not know if it is organic !!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kawaking Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/10/2007 at 3:56pm
Cant nobody tell me what the quakerstate bottle looks like ! !!!!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote *EJ* Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/10/2007 at 4:08pm
kawaking, go to an auto parts store and get the 10W30 or 10W40 conventional Quaker State oil.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kawaking Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/10/2007 at 5:00pm
ok thank you very much
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SticknMove Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/24/2007 at 4:21pm
EJ or Brock, I've been using 10w 40 Castrol in my bike, should I switch?  Is this the reason I've been hearing a rattling noise in the bike or could it be the timing chain when I initially start it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote *EJ* Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/24/2007 at 4:28pm
SticknMove, the ZX-14 has a rattling noise at start up, this is normal. We recommend the Alisyn 0W20, we have it for $10.00 a quart. It makes the best power with the protection you need.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote atticdog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/14/2008 at 8:39am
anyone use the mobil1 0w-30 in the new greenish bottles?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote prunty80 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/22/2008 at 2:11am
quaker state 10w30(organic), is it a car or motorcycle oil? Does it run better than the fully synthetic motorcycle oils?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Black Magic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/16/2009 at 1:41am
Quote: Originally posted by Brock o

JOHNS,

We had HP problems in the past with the Mobil 1 bike oil vs. their car oil...that's why we stuck with the car oil.

We now carry <<0, 0W-20,10W-30, 15W-50 and 20W-50 Alisyn oil to help cure this mess.

It may be next week until we have them all listed in our store.

Until then, call to place your order.

937-298-6818

Brock

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

ps. My advice:

1. <<0 for all stock engines in normal climates.

2. 0W-20 for stock engines in warmer climates (AND if you are afraid to use the <<0!!)

3. 10W-30 for modified engines up to 250 HP normally aspirated.

4. 15W-40 Modified engines above 250HP with Nitrous etc.- Billet Crank engines also.

5. 20W-50 for Turbo engines making 500HP or more.....



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Black Magic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/16/2009 at 1:56am
BROCK PLESE HELP ME! MY friend use to race for AMA he told me to use 20W-50 AMSOIL Synthetic Motorcycle Oil, because we live in NY and in the summer it get's real hot 100 plus degrees and we are usually in sit still traffic. I'M using 10W40 AMSOIL should i change, or what should i be using. I have a stock engine it a zx10 R. I do a lot of street and road racing.
Bikes are not for everyone. Just us crazy people. Speed u gotta love it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tommy2671 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/16/2009 at 4:42pm
10w40 will be fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Black Magic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/17/2009 at 2:38am
how good is 20w50 over 10w40. what's the good and what's the bad

Bikes are not for everyone. Just us crazy people. Speed u gotta love it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jasongillum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/17/2009 at 10:54am
20w 50 is way too thick for a stock motor...its killing free hp.  Use something thinner on a stock engine.  If you have a lot of spray or boost then use something thick like this.
Jason Gillum
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JOJO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/23/2009 at 11:42pm

Brock what about the Motul synthetic 5100 10w 40 in a bike making around 300 on the nitrous?

JOJO
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jasongillum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/24/2009 at 9:11am
With power levels over 300 on spray, you should use at least 10-40 but I would use 20-50w oil just to be safe.  Alisyn, Alisyn, Alisyn
Jason Gillum
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BLKICE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/28/2009 at 11:57pm

IS Valvoline motorcycle 4 stroke 10w-40 dino good for 07 ZX14.

ZX14 manual states to add 4 and 1/3 QTs when chaging the oil and filter. Is this much oil hurting HP? I Street ride everyday it is not raining and 1/8 mile once or twice a week. If it is too much, how much should I put in? I change oil every 3000 miles.

Thanks in advance,

  

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jasongillum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March/30/2009 at 8:02am
You should always check the oil level in the sight glass.  I would run it at the lower level on the sight glass, which should be around 3.75 qts. 
Jason Gillum
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigdtd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/12/2009 at 6:14pm
Its your timing chain adjuster
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gripgb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/21/2009 at 6:39pm
With the alyson, how long do you go between oil changes?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ANDER K. TAYLOR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/12/2009 at 1:44am
260hp busa all Brock out  (1397)10w40 lucas motorcycle oil works great
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote *EJ* Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August/12/2009 at 8:39am

We change every 3,000 mi or at the end of riding season.

Also if you smoke your clutch.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Donald Hanshaw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/15/2010 at 8:18am
 4 years racing useing mobil 1 10w 40 T4 in 1142 stroker suzuki . and last yaer in a 08 busa. after the first year my eng. builder check all crank bearings all spec. out minimum wear. He will inspec. the 1142  this week for wear i will let you all know the out come. What bikers do not do change oil enough when racing. race fuel,clutch , etc. in the oil will cause wear , that oil have to be clanged after max. 10 rounds at the track. 10 w 40 will thin out  to 30 to 35 weight , some oils more. I asked my builder what oil ,what weight, he said   SYNTHETIC , 30 weight. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January/25/2010 at 2:24pm

To be clear..

We have never seen a welded pusher assembly using Alisyn under normal conditions/use. But, it might be possible under extreme conditions of clutch spring coil bind or excessive weight on a lock-up assembly (levers) after pulling the clutch in at the end of a run?

The symptoms include:

1.    Noise from behind the sprocket or clutch cover (from the rotating assembly).

2.    Erratic clutch feel

3.    Vibration at the lever

4.    Inability for the clutch to release at the end of a run (aka, clutch drag)

5.    Inability select neutral

6.    Clutch creep.

The resolution is to remove the parts and replace them. In some less severe case, the parts can be broken apart, filed and reused **IF** the case hardening of the parts is not damaged by the heat.

IN ALL CASES, THE CAUSE OF PROBLEM WHICH CREATED THE WELDING MUST BE TROUBLESHOT AND ELIMINATED.

Brock

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote yotebomb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/07/2010 at 10:12am
Quick question.  When Brock recomends oil weight is that strictly for track use or can it also be used on the highway? Changed oil this past fall filled with Amsoil 0-20w. I have not ran the bike with anything this light.  ZX-12R BROCKED OUT AND RIPPEN' ASS!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BLKICE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/07/2010 at 4:36pm
I have a Stock motor ZX14 (300lb rider). I used Alisyn 0W20 last season. I'm think of adding a 40-60 dry shot, which Alisyn oil should I use?  I Street ride everyday the weather allows and 1/8 mile once or twice a week.
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