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TPS question/Stumble problem?! - Event Date: January/01/1900 - January/01/1900

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mmarks66busa View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mmarks66busa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/18/2008 at 7:31pm

Thanks for the forum and advice.

I have an 07, the dash was on the bottom. After a couple of tries I managed to keep in the middle.

Thanks

Brock, EJ, and Jason

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2K-Otic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/18/2008 at 11:03pm

I was having problems with my 06...horrible fuel mileage, extreme richness, and surging. Checked the TPS, and sure enough it was off. It was REAL easy to adjust.

The only thing is I was looking on the right side of the bike for the connector. It was on the left side on my bike. The TPS itself did not look like the picture in the factory service manual. The manual showed a sensor that had two safety torx heads that needed to be loosened. Mine had a sensor that only had one regular torx screw, and it rotated in a boss on the side of the number one throttle body. That was somewhat confusing, but once figured out it was easy. I also reset my PC3r...it was showing 1% after adjusting the TPS.

Seems to have made a big difference. The surging is gone and the exhaust doesn't smell like raw fuel. My fuel mileage has come back up to much closer to pre modification levels...32mpg vs. 24mpg on the open road (027d map by the way).

Thanks for the advice.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mmarks66busa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/19/2008 at 6:23pm

Jason,

So do I still need a tech with a yosh clicker box, or can this be done with the PC3 software?

mmarks66busa
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jasongillum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/20/2008 at 8:48am

The Yosh clicker box will set your factory ECU fuel mapping to ZERO.  The only thing the PC3 software can do is set your throttle positions to zero and 100, but the TPS on your bike must be calibrated to the middle bar on the heads up display, before any of this is done.

Jason Gillum
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Attiliod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/20/2008 at 7:15pm





So you are saying that is all you do for an 08? (see below) No jumping wires to set the TPS on the bike?
Has anyone thought of doing a pictorial of TPS setting on 08 Busa (TPS settings for dummies, lol)




For the pc3usb there are no wires to jump.Hook a computer to your power commander with the supplied usb cable.Start bike.Open the PC3usb program on you computer.Click Power Commander Tools at the top left of the page.Click set throttle position.There will be three boxes with numbers in them.The middle box will have an arrow pointing to the left box and an arrow pointing to the right box.The middle number will change frequently but the outside boxes will stay constant.Click the arrow pointing to the left box and the number that was in the center box when you clicked will now be in the left box.Click ok.Disconnect power commander and replace seat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote *EJ* Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/23/2008 at 11:32am

Attiliod,

You should still make sure the TPS is correct on the throttle bodies by using the heads up display in dealer mode.

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apples View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote apples Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/24/2008 at 1:33am

I am having stumbilng problems like everyone else. So to relieve these symptoms I should zero the tps sensor with the heads up display, then the usb power commander, then have the ecu zeroed with a yosh clicker box? Should I bring the bike to a Suzuki dealer to have the ecu zeroed, or can I purchase a clicker box and do it myself?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote *EJ* Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/27/2008 at 9:31am

apples,

you can do it yourself but the price of the Yosh clicker box to use it once is pretty expensive. Dealer would be better, only takes about 5 min.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote apples Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June/08/2008 at 11:49pm
Thanks EJ for the reply, I'm so pleased with the service from you guys
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BUSA08 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/08/2008 at 11:57am

Which connection under the seat do you use White or Black then which color wires do you jump out in the connection? 2008 BUSA

Kevin

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jasongillum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/08/2008 at 12:11pm
white connector...black/white and white/red
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BUSA08 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/08/2008 at 12:50pm

Jason, I have the service manual and it says to have the bike running when checking the TPS well doing it this way I read - COO dash in middle, When I do the test with just the ingition on I read _COO which do I do? 2008 BUSA

Kevin

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BUSA08 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/08/2008 at 1:09pm

OK, I set it to -COO with just ignition on, with the bike running I show - at the top of the scale is this OK? Tried to set throttle to zero closest I can come is 1%  onPCUSBIII any I ideals on what I need to do?

Kevin

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jasongillum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/08/2008 at 1:38pm

You need to have the bike running, if it reads in the middle you are fine.  Then turn the bike off.  Pull the jumper wire and replace cap.  Hook your PC3usb to your computer and start your bike.  At idle it will have a number in the middle that is jumping around...click left and it will set your throttle position on your POWER COMMANDER not your bike.

Please call our office if you have any other questions.

I hope this helps

 

Jason Gillum
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BUSA08 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/08/2008 at 2:40pm

Jason, I got everything where it should be.

THANKS!

 

Kevin

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kawaking Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October/31/2008 at 10:36pm
Hi   I want to set my TPS wile readintg the exact voltage ! it has to be !  after setting mine it helped alot but I want it more accuratly ! I still feel a stumble or I am going nuts ! this is for a 2005 hayabusa !!!!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jasongillum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/03/2008 at 9:02am
You should not have a stumble...your injectors may be dirty.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kawaking Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/03/2008 at 4:46pm
I will check them out thank you !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fubar569 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/16/2009 at 1:39pm

Figured this might be worth ressurecting from the dead...

I am tidying up my StreetSmart Install and overall i am VERY impressed with all the support i received AND the performance of the exhaust...

I am having a minor issue with a surge/bucking at very low throttle between 2-3k rpm...basically if i keep the throttle just a hair open or keep it constant the bike wishes to surge/buck...if i let off or accelerate all is well...

I have set the bike's TPS per instruction (always returns to middle dash after throttle movement), and set the PCIII tps to match the bike. with EcuEditor data monitoring the TPS reads between 1.2-1.9% at ~1150rpm...and PCIII tps reads 1%...if i zero the PCIII tps i notice a stumble just off idle...matching the 2 (PCIII and bike) produces a cleaner move off idle...i also disabled Yoshbox Compensation in the ECU itself...NO fueling changes were made from stock, however the ignition maps i flashed allowed removal of the TRE...

the surge/bucking was reduced by each successive step taken but is still present. WOT feels absolutely amazing...

I'm wondering if further tweaking would resolve the issue, if i am just a wee bit picky (as i can faithfully reproduce the surge/buck over and over), or if further measures should be taken (i.e. injector cleaning, maintenance, etc)...

I will report back after i double check a couple things

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jasongillum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/16/2009 at 2:46pm
You should find MR11 or MR9 and run a few gallons through your bike.  It sounds like you have dirty injectors.  Please let me know if this helps.
Jason Gillum
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fubar569 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/16/2009 at 4:03pm

I actually tried something not exactly recommended...

It wasn't a ping i was feeling or a lean misfire...so that left one other possibility...

I began to alter some cells within the map...spcifically some 0-2-5% and between 1500-2500rpm. I leaned the suspect cells out 1-2% at a time and verified the change in behavior with road testing. With each successive change the stumble gradually subsided until the present condition in which it is almost un-noticable. I do not plan to make any further changes until i can get some time on a dyno to verify AFR and have the ECU flashed with the tune. I do not wish to reinvent the wheel nor cause any damage. The bike feels much better after the changes.

I will also attempt to locate the MR9/MR11 fuel and clean the fuel system anyways. at ~4500mi it's probably due...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fubar569 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/16/2009 at 8:44pm
slight update:

the off idle stumble has been greatly reduced by making very minute changes to specific cells on the map. it is ever minutely present but so insignificant it isn't worth mentioning.

the surge/bucking is still present but typically only 2250-3000rpm. acceleration is fine and deceleration is fine but it's only trying to hold small throttle percentages constant at an rpm below 3000 when the bucking occurs. Almost as if the power is either on or off...the bike wants you to either move or stop. i cannot feel anything else anywhere else in the RPM range (including right up to 11k). strange...

I'll have to poke around and source some MR9/MR11 and take a little cruise with some in the tank and see if that helps.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fubar569 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/17/2009 at 7:36pm
Update:

airbox was removed/cleaned, checked, and i scraped & sanded & removed the foam/adhesive from the K&N foam gastets. Reinstalled stock filter, checked MAP (was loose on the box but vac line tight), checked flapper, checked IAT...everything was fine...

reinstalled airbox, zero mapped PCIII, Disabled Yoshbox compensation the the stock ECU, reloaded Brock's street map into PCIII and the low stumble came back with surging present. Loaded my slightly modified map and the stumble subsided and the surging seemed to be marginally better but i'll say it was the same. cruising is smooth though...just that surge/bucking below 3k at < 5% throttle or so (holding throttle constant).

No response from VP Atlantic as far as distributors for VP fuels. I am in zipcode 16701 if anyone has a dealer list they would like to look at for me.

NOTE: this MAY have something to do with the repairs i made to the header as a result of damage from the previous owner. Primary tubes 2 & 3 were "bottom halved" and had new tubing welded in to return them to smooth. they may or may not be exactly match the 1.690 ID of the tubing as calculated from measurements taken during the repair...but they are better than the nearly smashed shut condition i received them in. - that being the case it is likely the map might need minute changes to compensate or cylinder trim adjusted. just a thought...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jasongillum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/20/2009 at 8:56am

Is your flapper still connected to the airbox?  If so you need to remove it.  http://brocksperformance.com/Instructions/Hayabusa/Air%20Box%20Mod_web.doc

Check this to see if this helps out.

Jason Gillum
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fubar569 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/20/2009 at 10:06am
Everything was done per the instructions in that document. I've removed the foam gaskets from the K&N and sanded those areas back smooth and completely removed all debris from the airbox. velocity stacks are ok, no holes or loose fittings that i can tell...

VP Atlantic hasn't gotten back to me yet. I'm gonna make a phone call later today...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jasongillum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/20/2009 at 10:44am

We do not recommend the K&N filters.  They are not very consistent as far as the oiling process.  When the filter is brand new, it has a lot of oil in it...as is dries out, it causes problems with mapping.  We recommend the stock filter ONLY.  Have you tried this?  Please let me know

Jason Gillum
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fubar569 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/20/2009 at 1:47pm
went to the stock filter immediately after the exhaust was installed.

I had initially left the foam 'gaskets' that came with the K&N in place but have since removed those and sanded smooth any remaining adhesive residue and then cleaned the airbox of all debris and reinstalled the stock filter again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jasongillum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April/20/2009 at 2:20pm

It sounds to me like your injectors are dirty.  Please clean them with MR11 MR9 or MRX01 as soon as you can find it.  This should resolve your issue.  Please let me know the outcome once the fuel is ran through the bike.

Jason Gillum
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fubar569 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/21/2009 at 2:17am
i finally came to an incident about 5 days ago...bike ran fine in the morning and then wouldn't start at all that night. i checked plugs and they were fouled and wet. i cleaned, dried, and reinstalled and the bike still wouldn't fire...same condition...

i pulled open the service manual and it mentioned that if the plugs were wet to try moving one heat range hotter...which is a CR8E...i installed a fresh set of them and bike took off on the first roll and has ran it's absolute best ever since. I have even reloaded the unmodified original brock's map and the stumbling/surging issue is completely GONE...

I cannot sense any misfire/ping/stumble/anything anywhere in the RPM range. bike feels A LOT stronger than it ever has...

I am going to pull the plugs this weekend and check the condition to verify nothing is out of norm...

The only thing that bothers me...even if the plugs check out fine...is i do plan to spray the bike this year...i'm wondering if then i should switch back to CR9E's just to be safe...or if running 93oct plus pulling timing would be enough to keep it under control...either way it seems like the issue has been resolved for now
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rashad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February/14/2011 at 12:51am
sorry to resurrect an old thread.. but any update on this? Could it be possible that the plugs just needed replaced and the fact that the CR8s were new was enough?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fratacci7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/27/2011 at 1:58am
Hey brock Yoshimura clicker box ware i can find one
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote justmaxn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/05/2012 at 10:23am
Ok I have a 07 R1 that kicked out the TPS code. I replaced the sensor but now the bike stumbles around 70 mph. Its good up until then. I thought it may be due to the fact that for the first time since I got the bike in 07 I used 87 octane fuel and I usually use 93. Do I need to adjust the TPS on the bike and the TPS settings on the PC3 too?
07 Yamaha R1, Brocks Dual Undertail Shorty, PClllUSB, Ignition Module, BMC Race Filter, Graves Smog Block Off
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July/05/2012 at 10:50am

Yes, especially since you had that sensor replaced, our maps are set up for it to be set at zero.

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