ZX-14R (2012) Test and Race Info.(Update 2-26-13)

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Please remember that the information in this and all of our information forums is to be used as a guide and not necessarily the final word. All performance-based testing, data gathering, and advice are ‘works in progress’ which are subject to a variety of unknown conditions which can, and most likely will, allow some of the information to change and/or be adjusted. We do the best we can to provide solid, credible results in a timely fashion, but please don’t be afraid to try your own ideas… You always have the option to come back to these pages if you lose your way. Also, if you find something that differs from our findings, please let me know. We are more than anxious to hear about legitimate tests results and information to pass on to our customers. E-mail me personally with your findings Bmail@BrocksPerformance.com

If you are NEW to this Thread Read from the BOTTOM UP! 

Thank You

Brock

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Brock Flash 2 Update 7-31-12:

Pretty much everything you need to know about the updated flash is located in the video or in the product description/product detail tab:https://blog.brocksperformance.com/kawasaki-zx-14r-12-16-information-page/

Particular questions of interest to this point include:

1.    No PCV mapping changes are required.
2.    The new flash works with the Euro Spec. ECU with no ill effects on the ABS or O2 sensor function, although we do suggest the addition of Dynojets  (O2) Oxygen Optimizer: https://brocksperformance.com/engine-clutch/electronics-ignition/power-commander/kawasaki/zx-14-r/

There were some questions on-line about the video, requesting an additional break down of my explanation of the new flash. I also took this opportunity to explain how to properly re-install the flies. Unfortunately, the post on bikeland was destroyed by pointless banter, so here are my replies.

OK, let's make this easy:

1.    Using the stock ECU or with the Original Brock Flash: The 14R is only power restricted in the lower gears **IF** you trip the safety mode. With the flies installed, the power drop is dramatic. With them removed, it’s not as dramatic… but since the bike believes the flies were only open – let’s say 65% at 7900 RPM –  the ECU is supplying XXX amount of fuel… even though you are providing 100% air flow. Make more sense?

2.    Tripping the safety mode is easiest accomplished by ROLL-ONS (especially from 2^nd or 3^rd gear), followed by low RPM launches at the drag strip, and then by bogging the bike at the drag strip. Since doing any of these things is not conducive to obtaining analytical test data, we found the best way was to bog the bike on the dyno in third gear. Attempting to do so in 1^st or 2^nd gear gave us prematurely low dyno readings, which we found was actually an issue with the way the dyno drum was being accelerated/measured in the software.

3.    Special note to anyone planning on re-installing their flies: clean and prepare your throttle shafts, throttle plates, threaded holes and screws with brake cleaner. Use Loctite RED on the screws. If one comes loose and falls into your engine, catastrophic engine failure can result.

      4. If you launch at 3000-3200 RPM's - It is best to have your flies REMOVED. This is because we cannot open the flies electonically any sooner than this in the ECU. As a result, the bike will not hold a steady launch RPM in this area with them in place.

One last note: As I said in my FIRST POST... the original Brock flash worked GREAT, as the fine performances of the other bikes mentioned (Shane661, Racheal’s 212 MPH, Lee’s 8.47, and Terron’s 8.80 at stock wheelbase) indicated. This (The Brock Flash 2) is a fine tune with some very nice features.

Would I snatch my personal ECU out of my bike and get the Brock Flash 2? = Yes ***I WOULD*** because I hate changing the damn button all of the time at the drag strip. 

Would I put my flies back in? Yes ***I WOULD*** because I care about 1 MPH at the drag strip.  (Note: unless I am on a stock wheelbase bike, leaving at 3000-3200 RPM, see #4 above)

As far as the rest, I don’t ride in a manner that creates excessive decel pop (I speed up with the engine and slow down with the brakes) and I had to MAKE the bike ‘miss’ at low RPM’s by riding at a speed too low for that gear to create or PCV Street map – but it’s my job to make ALL of our customers happy under ALL riding conditions, so that’s what I do. Their requests make for a better overall product - I thank them. 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Update 6-23-12:

Thanks to Shane Burton, we are passing on this FREE tip, which we confirmed to pick up a solid TWO RWHP across the board, with an approximate 1 MPH gain in the ¼ mile during our track testing. One satellite tester registered his highest MPH in the 1/8 mile and his quickest ET ever after performing the mod, but extremely low tire pressure, due to poor track conditions, prevented an increase in his ¼ mile MPH. Either way, we are passing on this mod because we are confident it is worth a measurable gain. Thanks Shane661!

.

 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 

We have updated our ZX-14R map database as of 5-8-12. 

***Please fill out a Previously Approved Map Support form if you would like to receive the updated database. This update would apply to anyone who received maps prior to 5-8-12*** 

Click here to go directly to the previously approved Map Support form: http://www.brocksperformance.com/brocknm/templates/bpp-plain.aspx?articleid=51&zoneid=7

BPP_ZX1412_UF_TrackMap2.pvm is unchanged.

BPP_ZX1412_UF_StreetMap1.pvm has been RENAMED to BPP_ZX1412_UF_PumpTrackMap1.pvm – because this is more fitting of what it is. We concentrate on low speed mapping to allow the RPM’s to be held steady at small throttle openings for a consistent/hard launch and maximum acceleration at the drag strip. Of course, as Lee Pritchard’s 8.49 @ 162.60 MPH shows, this map REALLY WORKS in the go-fast department. But, for guys who street ride at very low RPM’s, parking lot cruising, heavy traffic etc., the extra fuel can become a bit of a nuisance, with some low speed surging.

As a result, we have now modified BPP_ZX1412_UF_StreetMap1.pvm into BPP_ZX1412_UF_StreetMap2… to allow the low speed cruising guys to enjoy their nuisance-free low speed rides and better gas mileage under 65 MPH, + also have Lee’s power and acceleration anywhere above @ 3000 RPM.

I hope you like the changes.

Brock

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Well I said the info would change… it always does on a new bike, but WOW! We had no idea what we were in for on the new 14R.
I have basically changed the most important part compared to my initial statements, so please read carefully.

Brock

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Ok guys - I have decided to lift the ban on the secondary throttle plate issue as a public service. I am very proud of the people who were able to keep quiet and not very happy with the ones who were not. I basically decided that it was better for Brock's to break the story and take credit for our development work, than to have someone else do it (who had zero right). I am now working on solving the different power in every gear issue and it is far more difficult.

Performance info AS WE KNOW IT RIGHT NOW --- It’s a new bike and things WILL change as we gain more knowledge:
1.    EVEN THOUGH YOU LOSE @ 2 RWHP, YOU MUST REMOVE YOUR FLIES IF YOU RACE (see the detailed guide below for your specific application): Even though we tested and proved beyond a reasonable doubt that removing the flies hurts power a little (our best guess is the loss is a result of added turbulence in the intake track?)… Even with the KTRAC turned off, we found out the bike has some type of ‘safety mode’ if it bogs or notices an abnormally large load on the engine. Please see this dyno chart:

Reading the above chart: 
The blue line (run_240) is with the Guhl ecu and the flies in. Top graph is horsepower – bottom is secondary blade opening percentage. Peak power 210.
The red line (run_241) is with the Guhl ecu and flies in during ‘protection mode’ note flies open slowly and never reach 100%. Blades are only open 72% at 8K RPM and the bike is down over 30 HP. Peak power 206.
The green line (run_260) is with the Guhl ecu and flies OUT also during ‘safety mode’. Note flies still open slowly and never reach 100%, but since they are missing, power is now restored all during run (see restored 30 HP at 8K). BUT, peak power is slightly down at 208 as a result of removing the flies (induced turbulence).

Brock’s Flies suggestion guide:
General riding and NOVICE drag racing = FLIES INSTALLED
Land speed racing, stock wheelbase = Judgment call. Flies in could save you from a costly crash, but the risk of botching a run from a bog is high.
Land speed racing extended wheelbase = FLIES REMOVED
Highway racing, stock wheelbase = Judgment call. Flies in could save you from a costly crash, but the risk of losing a race from a bog is high.
Highway racing, extended wheelbase = FLIES REMOVED
Drag racing, sportsman, stock wheelbase = Judgment call. Flies in could save you from a costly crash, but the risk of losing a race from a bog is high.
Drag racing, experienced, long wheelbase = FLIES REMOVED

Note: We were able to duplicate and measure this situation in 3^rd gear on the dyno by beginning our runs at 2K RPM, when in this ‘protection mode’, the secondary throttle blades are opened slowly as the RPM’s climb. You can see from the chart that the bike is down 30 horsepower at 8K RPM compared to a standard run. We believe this is to keep the rider from flipping over backwards if he/she bogs during a run or on the street as the mighty 14 delivers its power after such a rider error. The problem is that I saw it myself in Las Vegas during the press introduction while attempting to launch at very low RPM’s and Lee Pritchard has seen it himself on his 66” wheelbase bike, and he has no reason to launch so low. We now feel it may have tripped this mode exiting the water box?

2. Leave your stock air cleaner in place at the track (for now). We lost about 3 horsepower up top removing it on the dyno? We believe it is a result of turbulence and will know more after comprehensive drag strip testing with map adjustments.
3. Dyno test with 30-35 psi in the rear tire--- 42 psi will usually read @ 3-5 horsepower LOWER due to tire spin. Note: This depends upon the condition of the wear of the knurling on the dyno drum. TEST the pressure which works out best for you, but understand that the old rule of thumb that 'higher pressure reads more HP' does not work for higher horsepower bikes due to tire spin. The new bikes in the 200 RWHP range have changed the game and we must change our thinking and rules of engagement to match.
4. Use 89 Octane Shell fuel for best results. The old 87 Octane trick doesn't work on the higher compression of this killer, but 93 was too high on the dyno. We made 5 more HP with 89 Shell than 93 Sunoco. 87 was about 3 HP down from 89. Note: if you are in a very hot climate, you may be forced to run 91 Octane? Not sure yet… We would not run low octane if you 'Hot-Lap' at the track as heat and low Octane do not mix.  (Update: Customer Wheelie, from the boards, tried 87 Octane in the 1/8 mile vs. our 89 suggestion and ran his quickest pass ever! - moral of the story - don't be afraid to test! Pump fuels vary widely in consistency per station and brand/distribution facilities etc.)

5. You must run our clutch mod at the drag strip. Even though the clutch feels OK, it can’t hold the power of the R for drag racing and your ET’s will suffer.

6. If you are scared of our Alisyn <<0 weight motor oil and Patron additive for some reason, the Kawasaki 10W-30 fully synthetic motor oil available from dealerships would be our next best suggestion. It’s REALLY good stuff.
7. BTW, adding Ivan’s TRE-008 also removed this ‘protection mode’ – but we had to try 2 different units because one turned OFF the gear position sensor and one locked it onto 6th?

8. You can also see from the chart above that the mapping WAS affected by the removal of the flies. The good news is that our technology here at Brock’s has allowed us the ability to develop only two maps (SO FAR) for Street and Track use with the flies IN or OUT which works for all of our exhaust systems. This was no easy task. Please consider all of the work and effort that goes into our mapping when people ask you to ‘try’ them. Remember, honest people will tell us if you give up our secrets so THEY won't lose their ability to learn from this forum. (It happens all of the time)

9. Please check back frequently, they 14R project will go on throughout 2012.

10. Please go here for instructions to block your PAIR (emissions) to cut down on decel pop. We had a paperwork mix up on some of the first systems - THESE ARE THE CORRECT INSTRUCTIONS: http://www.brocksperformance.com/Instructions/ZX14/996395.pdf

11. Important update to ZX-14R owners, especially with extended swingarms: **DO NOT RUN LOW OIL LEVELS!**  Make are you are at least to the halfway level (between the marks) in the site glass to prevent oil starvation issues during hard launches or under wheelie conditions. Of course, with all of the torque and horsepower the 14R is packing, both of the above situations are a frequent occurrence.

12. Please see this FAQ about the relationship between adding a Power Commander and its affect on your KTRC Traction Control System:https://blog.brocksperformance.com/faq/can-you-use-the-ktrc-traction-control-on-the-zx-14r-and-or-zx-10r-even-if-you-attach-a-power-commander-v-pcv/

Track session update:

Update 6-23-12: Please see this updated post of Terrons 8.80@160.44 MPH run on Slugger from Indy: http://www.brocksperformance.com/brocknm/templates/bpp1.aspx?articleid=317&zoneid=10

Here is the exact set-up for the pass above with Terron Babbage riding (162 lbs. suited):

Stock wheelbase/foot shifting, Alien Head 2 exhaust (any/all exhaust will work the same with this map), PCV with TRACK MAP 2 , Guhl 'Brock Flash' (Stock ECU worked well, but extra RPM gives rider more time to get his/her foot on the peg), Alisyn <<0 full synthetic + Petron, clutch mod with 6X .180 shims, 40 tooth rear sprocket, o-ring chain with o-rings removed, World Wide bearings ceramic wheel bearings installed in the stock wheels, lowered, and strapped. Stock air cleaner was in place. Shift point on Tach was 11,500 - 11,750 with Guhl ECU. The 14R has a wide power band up top, so shift points are not as critical as some other bikes.

NOTE: Please submit a previously approved Map Support form to receive an updated map database with the new BPP_ZX1412_UF_RaceMap2.pvm for use with MR12.

FYI: The Street Map did not change.

Special Statement about our Map Support Maps for the Zx-14R:

BPP_ZX1412_UF_RaceMap2.pvm IS the 8.87 map out of Slugger. + BPP_ZX1412_UF_StreetMap1.pvm is what Lee Pritchard (SmokinZx-14) just used to run 8.50@161.87 MPH at 66" wheelbase on 87 Octane Shell . We use the exact products we sell and pass on our knowledge and mapping on to our customers (:

Note: we did have a type-o on the map names before today's 4-14-12 update: we had BPP_ZX1412_UF_RaceMap2.pvm instead of BPP_ZX1412_UF_TrackMap2.pvm. The names have been changed in our map database, but the maps themselves did not change.

Check back - more to follow in the next week or so - BD
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DANGER! The instructions below involve an open flame, a brand new motorcycle and mechanical aptitude… a HIGH LEVEL of caution is advised. Seek professional assistance if this statement makes you nervous AT ALL.

Instructions to remove secondary throttle plates, also known as secondary butterflies or just ‘Flies’:

The secondary throttle plates are held in place with heat-sensitive thread locker.  Have a FIRE EXTINGUISHER, long needle-nose pliers (or hemostats,) and magnet ready at all times. In NO INSTANCE should you feel the need to open the gas at the grip - to do so could cause a screw to fall into your intake tract!

To remove the secondary plates (please read this entire procedure before beginning):

1.    You will heat the lower section of the appropriately sized/length Phillips head screwdriver (we use a 10” long #2 Phillips head Craftsman screwdriver, available at Sears) with a propane torch -  do not have an open flame close to your bike or intake track! Be sure to use a brand new or near-new screwdriver. Stripping the screw heads will cause you BIG PROBLEMS. It is in your best interest to attempt screw removal once and get it right the first time. Do not heat the tip directly. We heat around 1.5 inches from the tip to prevent damage to the tip of the screwdriver.

2.   After heating to a slight dull red glow, place the screwdriver into the screw head and start to apply steady pressure to loosen. As the heat dissolves the thread locker, continually attempt to loosen the screw. DO NOT FORCE - allow time for the heat to do its job. You will ‘feel’ the thread locker break loose, and then simply continue to unscrew. Note: A slight ‘sizzle’ sound is normal; do not be alarmed. The screws will be hot, use the needle nose pliers or magnet to extract, if needed.  Please be extremely careful – the screwdriver will remain hot for several minutes.

3.   Once the screws are removed, remove the throttle plate and continue on to the next intake tract until all plates and screws are removed.

4.   Install the appropriate Brock’s Performance PCV map (for your application) that you received from our Map Support team. 
Note: I have begun these instructions intentionally in the middle of the entire procedure. If you do not understand how to get to this point, then DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS MODIFICATION on your own.

Good Luck and GO FAST!
Brock 

Author	Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic
Brock Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group Joined: October/01/2003 Location: Dayton, OH Status: Offline Points: 232	Post Options Post Reply Quote Brock Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: ZX-14R (2012) Test and Race Info.(Update 2-26-13) Posted: March/29/2012 at 1:29pm
	Please remember that the information in this and all of our information forums is to be used as a guide and not necessarily the final word. All performance-based testing, data gathering, and advice are ‘works in progress’ which are subject to a variety of unknown conditions which can, and most likely will, allow some of the information to change and/or be adjusted. We do the best we can to provide solid, credible results in a timely fashion, but please don’t be afraid to try your own ideas… You always have the option to come back to these pages if you lose your way. Also, if you find something that differs from our findings, please let me know. We are more than anxious to hear about legitimate tests results and information to pass on to our customers. E-mail me personally with your findings Bmail@BrocksPerformance.com If you are NEW to this Thread Read from the BOTTOM UP! Thank You Brock ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Brock Flash 2 Update 7-31-12: Pretty much everything you need to know about the updated flash is located in the video or in the product description/product detail tab:https://blog.brocksperformance.com/kawasaki-zx-14r-12-16-information-page/ Particular questions of interest to this point include: 1. No PCV mapping changes are required. 2. The new flash works with the Euro Spec. ECU with no ill effects on the ABS or O2 sensor function, although we do suggest the addition of Dynojets (O2) Oxygen Optimizer: https://brocksperformance.com/engine-clutch/electronics-ignition/power-commander/kawasaki/zx-14-r/ There were some questions on-line about the video, requesting an additional break down of my explanation of the new flash. I also took this opportunity to explain how to properly re-install the flies. Unfortunately, the post on bikeland was destroyed by pointless banter, so here are my replies. OK, let's make this easy: 1. Using the stock ECU or with the Original Brock Flash: The 14R is only power restricted in the lower gears IF you trip the safety mode. With the flies installed, the power drop is dramatic. With them removed, it’s not as dramatic… but since the bike believes the flies were only open – let’s say 65% at 7900 RPM – the ECU is supplying XXX amount of fuel… even though you are providing 100% air flow. Make more sense? 2. Tripping the safety mode is easiest accomplished by ROLL-ONS (especially from 2^nd or 3^rd gear), followed by low RPM launches at the drag strip, and then by bogging the bike at the drag strip. Since doing any of these things is not conducive to obtaining analytical test data, we found the best way was to bog the bike on the dyno in third gear. Attempting to do so in 1^st or 2^nd gear gave us prematurely low dyno readings, which we found was actually an issue with the way the dyno drum was being accelerated/measured in the software. 3. Special note to anyone planning on re-installing their flies: clean and prepare your throttle shafts, throttle plates, threaded holes and screws with brake cleaner. Use Loctite RED on the screws. If one comes loose and falls into your engine, catastrophic engine failure can result. 4. If you launch at 3000-3200 RPM's - It is best to have your flies REMOVED. This is because we cannot open the flies electonically any sooner than this in the ECU. As a result, the bike will not hold a steady launch RPM in this area with them in place. One last note: As I said in my FIRST POST... the original Brock flash worked GREAT, as the fine performances of the other bikes mentioned (Shane661, Racheal’s 212 MPH, Lee’s 8.47, and Terron’s 8.80 at stock wheelbase) indicated. This (The Brock Flash 2) is a fine tune with some very nice features. Would I snatch my personal ECU out of my bike and get the Brock Flash 2? = Yes *I WOULD* because I hate changing the damn button all of the time at the drag strip. Would I put my flies back in? Yes *I WOULD* because I care about 1 MPH at the drag strip. (Note: unless I am on a stock wheelbase bike, leaving at 3000-3200 RPM, see #4 above) As far as the rest, I don’t ride in a manner that creates excessive decel pop (I speed up with the engine and slow down with the brakes) and I had to MAKE the bike ‘miss’ at low RPM’s by riding at a speed too low for that gear to create or PCV Street map – but it’s my job to make ALL of our customers happy under ALL riding conditions, so that’s what I do. Their requests make for a better overall product - I thank them. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Update 6-23-12: Thanks to Shane Burton, we are passing on this FREE tip, which we confirmed to pick up a solid TWO RWHP across the board, with an approximate 1 MPH gain in the ¼ mile during our track testing. One satellite tester registered his highest MPH in the 1/8 mile and his quickest ET ever after performing the mod, but extremely low tire pressure, due to poor track conditions, prevented an increase in his ¼ mile MPH. Either way, we are passing on this mod because we are confident it is worth a measurable gain. Thanks Shane661! . ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ We have updated our ZX-14R map database as of 5-8-12. *Please fill out a Previously Approved Map Support form if you would like to receive the updated database. This update would apply to anyone who received maps prior to 5-8-12* Click here to go directly to the previously approved Map Support form: http://www.brocksperformance.com/brocknm/templates/bpp-plain.aspx?articleid=51&zoneid=7 BPP_ZX1412_UF_TrackMap2.pvm is unchanged. BPP_ZX1412_UF_StreetMap1.pvm has been RENAMED to BPP_ZX1412_UF_PumpTrackMap1.pvm – because this is more fitting of what it is. We concentrate on low speed mapping to allow the RPM’s to be held steady at small throttle openings for a consistent/hard launch and maximum acceleration at the drag strip. Of course, as Lee Pritchard’s 8.49 @ 162.60 MPH shows, this map REALLY WORKS in the go-fast department. But, for guys who street ride at very low RPM’s, parking lot cruising, heavy traffic etc., the extra fuel can become a bit of a nuisance, with some low speed surging. As a result, we have now modified BPP_ZX1412_UF_StreetMap1.pvm into BPP_ZX1412_UF_StreetMap2… to allow the low speed cruising guys to enjoy their nuisance-free low speed rides and better gas mileage under 65 MPH, + also have Lee’s power and acceleration anywhere above @ 3000 RPM. I hope you like the changes. Brock ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well I said the info would change… it always does on a new bike, but WOW! We had no idea what we were in for on the new 14R. I have basically changed the most important part compared to my initial statements, so please read carefully. Brock --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ok guys - I have decided to lift the ban on the secondary throttle plate issue as a public service. I am very proud of the people who were able to keep quiet and not very happy with the ones who were not. I basically decided that it was better for Brock's to break the story and take credit for our development work, than to have someone else do it (who had zero right). I am now working on solving the different power in every gear issue and it is far more difficult. Performance info AS WE KNOW IT RIGHT NOW --- It’s a new bike and things WILL change as we gain more knowledge: 1. EVEN THOUGH YOU LOSE @ 2 RWHP, YOU MUST REMOVE YOUR FLIES IF YOU RACE (see the detailed guide below for your specific application): Even though we tested and proved beyond a reasonable doubt that removing the flies hurts power a little (our best guess is the loss is a result of added turbulence in the intake track?)… Even with the KTRAC turned off, we found out the bike has some type of ‘safety mode’ if it bogs or notices an abnormally large load on the engine. Please see this dyno chart: Reading the above chart: The blue line (run_240) is with the Guhl ecu and the flies in. Top graph is horsepower – bottom is secondary blade opening percentage. Peak power 210. The red line (run_241) is with the Guhl ecu and flies in during ‘protection mode’ note flies open slowly and never reach 100%. Blades are only open 72% at 8K RPM and the bike is down over 30 HP. Peak power 206. The green line (run_260) is with the Guhl ecu and flies OUT also during ‘safety mode’. Note flies still open slowly and never reach 100%, but since they are missing, power is now restored all during run (see restored 30 HP at 8K). BUT, peak power is slightly down at 208 as a result of removing the flies (induced turbulence). Brock’s Flies suggestion guide: General riding and NOVICE drag racing = FLIES INSTALLED Land speed racing, stock wheelbase = Judgment call. Flies in could save you from a costly crash, but the risk of botching a run from a bog is high. Land speed racing extended wheelbase = FLIES REMOVED Highway racing, stock wheelbase = Judgment call. Flies in could save you from a costly crash, but the risk of losing a race from a bog is high. Highway racing, extended wheelbase = FLIES REMOVED Drag racing, sportsman, stock wheelbase = Judgment call. Flies in could save you from a costly crash, but the risk of losing a race from a bog is high. Drag racing, experienced, long wheelbase = FLIES REMOVED Note: We were able to duplicate and measure this situation in 3^rd gear on the dyno by beginning our runs at 2K RPM, when in this ‘protection mode’, the secondary throttle blades are opened slowly as the RPM’s climb. You can see from the chart that the bike is down 30 horsepower at 8K RPM compared to a standard run. We believe this is to keep the rider from flipping over backwards if he/she bogs during a run or on the street as the mighty 14 delivers its power after such a rider error. The problem is that I saw it myself in Las Vegas during the press introduction while attempting to launch at very low RPM’s and Lee Pritchard has seen it himself on his 66” wheelbase bike, and he has no reason to launch so low. We now feel it may have tripped this mode exiting the water box? 2. Leave your stock air cleaner in place at the track (for now). We lost about 3 horsepower up top removing it on the dyno? We believe it is a result of turbulence and will know more after comprehensive drag strip testing with map adjustments. 3. Dyno test with 30-35 psi in the rear tire--- 42 psi will usually read @ 3-5 horsepower LOWER due to tire spin. Note: This depends upon the condition of the wear of the knurling on the dyno drum. TEST the pressure which works out best for you, but understand that the old rule of thumb that 'higher pressure reads more HP' does not work for higher horsepower bikes due to tire spin. The new bikes in the 200 RWHP range have changed the game and we must change our thinking and rules of engagement to match. 4. Use 89 Octane Shell fuel for best results. The old 87 Octane trick doesn't work on the higher compression of this killer, but 93 was too high on the dyno. We made 5 more HP with 89 Shell than 93 Sunoco. 87 was about 3 HP down from 89. Note: if you are in a very hot climate, you may be forced to run 91 Octane? Not sure yet… We would not run low octane if you 'Hot-Lap' at the track as heat and low Octane do not mix. (Update: Customer Wheelie, from the boards, tried 87 Octane in the 1/8 mile vs. our 89 suggestion and ran his quickest pass ever! - moral of the story - don't be afraid to test! Pump fuels vary widely in consistency per station and brand/distribution facilities etc.) 5. You must run our clutch mod at the drag strip. Even though the clutch feels OK, it can’t hold the power of the R for drag racing and your ET’s will suffer. 6. If you are scared of our Alisyn <<0 weight motor oil and Patron additive for some reason, the Kawasaki 10W-30 fully synthetic motor oil available from dealerships would be our next best suggestion. It’s REALLY good stuff. 7. BTW, adding Ivan’s TRE-008 also removed this ‘protection mode’ – but we had to try 2 different units because one turned OFF the gear position sensor and one locked it onto 6th? 8. You can also see from the chart above that the mapping WAS affected by the removal of the flies. The good news is that our technology here at Brock’s has allowed us the ability to develop only two maps (SO FAR) for Street and Track use with the flies IN or OUT which works for all of our exhaust systems. This was no easy task. Please consider all of the work and effort that goes into our mapping when people ask you to ‘try’ them. Remember, honest people will tell us if you give up our secrets so THEY won't lose their ability to learn from this forum. (It happens all of the time) 9. Please check back frequently, they 14R project will go on throughout 2012. 10. Please go here for instructions to block your PAIR (emissions) to cut down on decel pop. We had a paperwork mix up on some of the first systems - THESE ARE THE CORRECT INSTRUCTIONS: http://www.brocksperformance.com/Instructions/ZX14/996395.pdf 11. Important update to ZX-14R owners, especially with extended swingarms: DO NOT RUN LOW OIL LEVELS! Make are you are at least to the halfway level (between the marks) in the site glass to prevent oil starvation issues during hard launches or under wheelie conditions. Of course, with all of the torque and horsepower the 14R is packing, both of the above situations are a frequent occurrence. 12. Please see this FAQ about the relationship between adding a Power Commander and its affect on your KTRC Traction Control System:https://blog.brocksperformance.com/faq/can-you-use-the-ktrc-traction-control-on-the-zx-14r-and-or-zx-10r-even-if-you-attach-a-power-commander-v-pcv/ Track session update: Update 6-23-12: Please see this updated post of Terrons 8.80@160.44 MPH run on Slugger from Indy: http://www.brocksperformance.com/brocknm/templates/bpp1.aspx?articleid=317&zoneid=10 Here is the exact set-up for the pass above with Terron Babbage riding (162 lbs. suited): Stock wheelbase/foot shifting, Alien Head 2 exhaust (any/all exhaust will work the same with this map), PCV with TRACK MAP 2 , Guhl 'Brock Flash' (Stock ECU worked well, but extra RPM gives rider more time to get his/her foot on the peg), Alisyn <<0 full synthetic + Petron, clutch mod with 6X .180 shims, 40 tooth rear sprocket, o-ring chain with o-rings removed, World Wide bearings ceramic wheel bearings installed in the stock wheels, lowered, and strapped. Stock air cleaner was in place. Shift point on Tach was 11,500 - 11,750 with Guhl ECU. The 14R has a wide power band up top, so shift points are not as critical as some other bikes. NOTE: Please submit a previously approved Map Support form to receive an updated map database with the new BPP_ZX1412_UF_RaceMap2.pvm for use with MR12. FYI: The Street Map did not change. Special Statement about our Map Support Maps for the Zx-14R: BPP_ZX1412_UF_RaceMap2.pvm IS the 8.87 map out of Slugger. + BPP_ZX1412_UF_StreetMap1.pvm is what Lee Pritchard (SmokinZx-14) just used to run 8.50@161.87 MPH at 66" wheelbase on 87 Octane Shell . We use the exact products we sell and pass on our knowledge and mapping on to our customers (: Note: we did have a type-o on the map names before today's 4-14-12 update: we had BPP_ZX1412_UF_RaceMap2.pvm instead of BPP_ZX1412_UF_TrackMap2.pvm. The names have been changed in our map database, but the maps themselves did not change. Check back - more to follow in the next week or so - BD ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- DANGER! The instructions below involve an open flame, a brand new motorcycle and mechanical aptitude… a HIGH LEVEL of caution is advised. Seek professional assistance if this statement makes you nervous AT ALL. Instructions to remove secondary throttle plates, also known as secondary butterflies or just ‘Flies’: The secondary throttle plates are held in place with heat-sensitive thread locker. Have a FIRE EXTINGUISHER, long needle-nose pliers (or hemostats,) and magnet ready at all times. In NO INSTANCE should you feel the need to open the gas at the grip - to do so could cause a screw to fall into your intake tract! To remove the secondary plates (please read this entire procedure before beginning): 1. You will heat the lower section of the appropriately sized/length Phillips head screwdriver (we use a 10” long #2 Phillips head Craftsman screwdriver, available at Sears) with a propane torch - do not have an open flame close to your bike or intake track! Be sure to use a brand new or near-new screwdriver. Stripping the screw heads will cause you BIG PROBLEMS. It is in your best interest to attempt screw removal once and get it right the first time. Do not heat the tip directly. We heat around 1.5 inches from the tip to prevent damage to the tip of the screwdriver. 2. After heating to a slight dull red glow, place the screwdriver into the screw head and start to apply steady pressure to loosen. As the heat dissolves the thread locker, continually attempt to loosen the screw. DO NOT FORCE - allow time for the heat to do its job. You will ‘feel’ the thread locker break loose, and then simply continue to unscrew. Note: A slight ‘sizzle’ sound is normal; do not be alarmed. The screws will be hot, use the needle nose pliers or magnet to extract, if needed. Please be extremely careful – the screwdriver will remain hot for several minutes. 3. Once the screws are removed, remove the throttle plate and continue on to the next intake tract until all plates and screws are removed. 4. Install the appropriate Brock’s Performance PCV map (for your application) that you received from our Map Support team. Note: I have begun these instructions intentionally in the middle of the entire procedure. If you do not understand how to get to this point, then DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS MODIFICATION on your own. Good Luck and GO FAST! Brock