Brock's Performance Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > StreetSmart Owners Section (Private) > Test & Race Information (Private)
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Busa (99-07)Test and Race Information
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Forum LockedBusa (99-07)Test and Race Information - Event Date: January/01/1900

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
Brock View Drop Down
Admin Group
Admin Group


Joined: October/01/2003
Location: Dayton, OH
Status: Offline
Points: 232
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Calendar Event: Busa (99-07)Test and Race Information
    Posted: January/21/2003 at 7:04pm

Hayabusa Test Criteria ( ALL Gen 1 and MOST Gen 2 Busa's and most GSX-R's)

Remember: We are available to HELP you GO FAST and solve problems!

Use our 'Contact Us' page to get in touch with us:
http://www.brocksperformance.com/brocknm/templates/bpp-plain.aspx?articleid=13&zoneid=7

We have also added more information pertaining to modified engines!

Latest update: 12-02-2013 

Aftermarket products NOT available from Brocks Performance: As a general rule, if you don't see a particular product available in our Brock's Performance store�.. It�s because we do not consider it worth selling! We use what we sell and we sell what we use. We pay little or no attention to market trends or fancy product marketing. The bottom line is this; if Brock feels that a particular product should be used on your motorcycle to make it BETTER in any way, we try to make it available through Brocks so that we can provide the highest level of customer support possible. If a particular product is not listed in our store (example: aftermarket gauze type air cleaners for STREET use) it's because we have found them to be no advantage compared to stock. We don't want you to waste your money any more than you do and we certainly don't want to direct you to purchasing a product which will slow you down.  

Naturally, there are some exceptions to this rule for particular use (street/drag race/land speed/road race/grudge race with large displacement engines etc.) we recommend calling our technical support staff for specifics.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Our map structure and labeling is as follows:

TRACK MAP- for use on the drag strip with air cleaner removed (Brock's Air Box Lid Installed) using oxygenated fuel (MR9, MR12, U4.2 etc.) **DO NOT ride on the street with the air cleaner removed**
 

STREET MAP- for use on the street with air cleaner installed using pump gas (any octane- we dyno with BP93 for street use in hot conditions. 87-89 usually makes more power if the bike NEVER PINGS�.if it does, convert to 91 or 93 Octane immediately) 

Note: it is not necessary to switch maps back and forth- BUT, the best drivability and performance will be noticed if you do. 

TRE installed= No map changes required  

ALWAYS CHECK THE MAP NOTES FOR SPECIFIC DETAILS


ECU Re-Flash:

It is important to understand that if you alter your stock ECU from the Suzuki base map using PetricK's ECU editor software/or Boost by Smith etc. (other than raising the peak rpm limit, 400 RPM max increase is our suggestion, and removing the top speed limiter) that our Power Commander and Bazzaz maps will no longer function properly and our technical support staff will not be able to help you troubleshoot controls-based problems.  We also have no way of increasing the RPM tuning ceiling of some maps, you will need to consult the manufacturer of your ECU modification software to address these issues.

Our support program is based on the OEM configuration so that all bikes are on the same page; the moment you alter this, you have created a custom configuration and will be on your own just like any other racer or tuner.  Please save your OEM base map before making any adjustments to the stock ECU.  This will allow us to help you later if you decide to return to the OEM settings and take advantage of our proven combinations using a Power Commander.

The same holds true if you alter your stock ECU with a Yoshimura clicker box or a Factory Pro Teka unit.  ALL maps supplied by Brocks Performance are designed to add or subtract from the factory developed maps stored in the stock ECU.  The ONLY way our maps will function correctly is to return the ECU to its zero settings. 

New addtions are in ORANGE. We will keep it this way for a while and ADD more as needed to allow everyone to have time to quickly notice changes. We recommend reading through the entire section, on occasion, in case you may have missed any updates.

Very Significant and/or new information is highlighted in RED - Read it also!!

It is in our best interest that YOU perform at your peak with OUR name on your bike!.......   

The following is the exact test criteria used by Brock's Performance to test STOCK Hayabusa's with the StreetSmart TM , Street Megaphone or 4-2-1 Sidewinder exhaust package. This is also how we run the bikes at the track. We use no air filter with the airbox opening sealed with our air box lid. Do not run your bike on the street for more than a mile or two without the filter!! Serious engine damage can result in a short period of time depending on the type of area where you live.

Completing these steps will ensure that your bike will properly apply its power to the dyno and perform its best on the track. For street use, simply re-install the stock filter. No modifications to the mapping are required. The bike will run slightly rich, which is optimum for long engine life. 

We will update this area as new information and advice become available....Don't expect large additions.....We have the stock Busa's down to a Science! 

Please check for small updates here frequently!

Dynamometers are typically a sobering experience! Very few people leave with as much power as they expected to make. The frustration is compounded by the problem of most enthusiasts not knowing how to tune in the correct direction to obtain the appropriate results. If you follow **ALL** of the instructions below, your chances of displaying "bragging rights" numbers are virtually guaranteed and your bike will actually be faster. If you decide to use this information in a selective manner, your results will definitely suffer. We have done the work, let the results speak for YOU....this is why we supply the owners group information.

In conversations with Dynojet, they have noticed stock Hayabusa readings vary considerably. On a Model 250, they have measured  readings  from 140-155 rear wheel HP! If you intend to play the dyno game: As a general, rule it is best to dyno your machine before and after installation of any performance components, preferably on the same dyno in similar conditions. If you are looking for maximum output, this rule MUST be followed. We typically make the changes without removing the bike from the dyno if at all possible.

FUEL SYSTEM CLEANING

                  *****Important Special Information*****

In the beginning, we noticed a handful of Busa's which did not perform on the dyno or track as expected. Some were worse than others, but they simply did not match the standards set by the majority of the other bikes. It would be very easy to shrug the problem off with an excuse like: "You must have received a slow one" or "Your dyno reads low" or "You need more practice at the track"!! (Although nearly ALL DO!!)

WE DO NOT RUN OUR OPERATION LIKE THIS! 

As a result, we made it our personal mission to trouble-shoot these occurrences with the customer and/or their mechanic to get to the root of the problem. ALL of the Hayabusa's in our area run IDENTICAL (+/- 5 HP is typical...unless something is broken on the bike) There was something strange going on. (I personally have more faith in Suzuki's R&D team to believe that they would actually allow such a wide production variance in performance!) The good news is that we found the problem....the bad news is that the simple cure is a bit unorthodox! 

To make a very long story shorter: The 99 Hayabusa's were recalled due to fuel screens that proved very easy to clog.....They basically worked TOO well. The solution was to install a coarser screen that did not filter out as much debris. This plan was implemented on all model years after the initial 1999 repairs. Most gas stations use a paper filter element on their pumps. This filter naturally deteriorates with use and allows some fibers to enter the fuel tank. Because the Busa's updated screens allow the fibers and debris to travel through the screen, they now pass on to the next smallest orifice in the system and get trapped with the varnish, rust,  and other trash that pump gas is known for.....In The Fuel Injection Nozzles!!! 

We have repeatedly verified, on the dyno and track, the results of a cure we have found to "CLEANSE" the fuel system. It requires little or no mechanical expertise.....We occasionally test new fuels in an attempt to run faster and make more power. One of these fuels is produced by a company called Nutec The type we use is called Special 4. It is expensive and hard to find.  

NOTE: Nutec is bankrupt from what we can tell?!

We have since switched to VP MR9 to cleanse the fuel systems. It takes a bit longer....@ 10 dyno pulls but it works. A 1/2 hour ride on the street works well also.

DO NOT LEAVE MR9 in your fuel tank as damage to the pump may result!

We are supplying up to the minute information in our forum.

Click here for the latest information on MR 9:

These fuels are like nothing you have ever smelled or tried. They are aggressive in all respects! This stuff cleans out the fuel system and nozzles in short order. In as little as a couple of gallons, we have noticed as much as a ***15-20 HP gain*** AFTER switching back to pump gas!!! We do not leave the Rowdy fuels in the tank for periods of time, in fact we really only run it now to clean the system as it is a nuisance to continually drain the tank on street bikes. We have also noticed that it makes your oil smell like gas! We have started cleaning the system with a couple of gallons of  MR9, draining it from the tank, then changing the oil and not worrying about it again for about 3 months. We are not sure if the fuel is breaking down the oil, but.....after you smell it, you will want to change your oil also!!

We contacted American Suzuki about the problem of the clogging injectors, certain that they would have a better solution to the problem. They do not dyno test street bikes, so they really didn't know that the problem exists...much less have a viable alternative to our "racers" cure. 

Suzuki now offers a fuel injector cleaner at their dealerships.

in MUCH higher concentrations than the bottle suggests. The ratio we use is 1 bottle to 2 gallons of fuel, and it still takes forever and kills power while doing it.....but it does seem to eventually help.

There are also companies which will clean and flow-match you injectors if you want to put this mess to bed. Contact sales@brocksperformance.com for more information.

High mileage bikes are more at risk due to the amount of fuel that has been run through the system. But, we have noticed some newer bikes slowing at the track after only several HUNDRED miles of use. It appears to be directly related to your area of the country and the quality of the gas stations. Some racers in our area have begun purchasing their fuel at newly constructed gas stations with measurable results. We will continue to try other cures....until then, the VP MR9 is the only way we have found without sending your injectors to an automotive fuel injection specialist to have them individually cleaned $$$$$

FINALLY a CURE! Please go here to read about our Wynns Power Charge: https://www.brocksperformance.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1717

One last comment:

Our two Cents: Dynos only read and correct the numbers they see from the machine. In late Fall and early Spring conditions, ALL of the bikes are reading higher. We have seen increases of 7-10 hp higher versus in the heat of the summer! If you wish to impress your buddies, return to the dyno (after cleaning your fuel system!) on a beautiful Fall day with blue skies and no sign of rain....you probably won't even believe the numbers you see!!.

1. Rear tire: Inflate the stock or standard type DOT rear tire to 42-PSI air pressure or the max pressure rating on the sidewall.  The Mickey-T street slick may cause a loss of power on the Dyno. But, even at questionable tracks, this exceptionally sticky tire can usually be run in the 25-30 PSI range with the stock swingarm (more rebound dampening on the stock rear shock adjustment is all that is usually necessary with the stock arm). On a sprayed track, we have run as much as 35 PSI (BIG mph!) with ample traction. The MCR-2 doesn�t last long and is not recommended for the street or dyno. We do occasionally inflate the MCR-2 to 35 lbs and make a dyno pull or two without problems. The Dunlop D-207 will usually show a loss of power on the dyno and will not provide enough traction for most straight-line applications. For continuous street use with very good traction at the strip (18 PSI is a good start), it is hard to beat the Shinko R003. It is basically the old Yokohama tire used by shootout racers for years before the introduction of the MCR2. Shootout racers would pay as much as $500 for USED Yokohama�s after they quit making motorcycle tires. Enough said. 

Note: Some of the newer tires (Bridgestone and Pirelli's) will spin on the dyno at 42 psi- lower the pressure to 30 psi if you initially record low Dyno reading. 

 2. PUMP Gas: Amoco premium works well. Shell 87 works well also (believe it or not!). Nearly all premium pump fuels work the same. DO NOT use race fuel of any type. Your bike was designed for pump fuel and so was our mapping. ALL of our current maps are for use with VP MR9/MRXO1/U4....these fuels display an Air Fuel Ratio VERY close to 87 Octane Pump gas.

Some new go fast fuels read RICHER than pump gas, even though they are packed with oxygenates and additional horsepower?! We don't really know what all they put in these fuels, but the notion that just because you are running an oxygenated fuel it should read LEANER is simply not correct any longer.

There are NO MAPPING changes required to switch between the Rowdy fuels and Pump gas!! We have noticed that Hayabusa's run better on the track and dyno with 87 octane pump gas. We believe this is due to more oxygenates being added to the 87 octane due to its increased use in an attempt to do less harm to the environment! This has been suggested, but it is hard to prove. We don't really care...as long as we go FASTER! 

High Octane fuels: Stock engines are designed specifically to operate on low octane fuels. If you decide to run high octane race gas (VP C-12/C-14/C-16 etc- Sunoco 105 basically ANY fuel higher than 93 pump gas) in your stock engine, YOU ARE WASTING BIG HORSEPOWER! We have seen a 10-15 HP drop from 87 Octane to switching to C-16 for Nitrous use. Of course this is not a problem when spraying because you make up the loss with the additional power of the Nitrous Oxide.

High Octane slows the burn rate to prevent detonation, this kills power and turns otherwise perfect mapping very rich. Unless you NEED the additional Octane for use with higher compression pistons/Nitrous Oxide etc., we suggest that you save your $ and quit slowing your bike down by running race fuel instead of 87 Octane pump gas.

If your bike spends a lot of time in very hot conditions or idling for long periods in traffic, run 89 Octane. Some bikes like the higher compression: GSX-R1000�s need 93 Octane for the above conditions, but function well at the track or during general street use with 87 Octane. Remember also that the quality of the fuel can create pings also. If one station�s 87 creates pings, try a different station. If you EVER think you hear your bike ping under load, IMMEDIATELY go to the next higher Octane available from your most trusted source.

The most powerful race fuels being run today are very low Octane to create more power (VP MR9 is 87 Octane; the more powerful MR10 is 86 Octane) We suggest these expensive fuels if you are trying to squeeze the last bit of performance out of your stock engine. U4 works well also, although it only makes about 50% as much increase in power compared to the MR9.   

3. Oil: UPDATE: http://www.brocksperformance.com/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=11&TopicID=942&PagePosition=1

FORMERLY: We use 3 1/2 quarts of 5W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic CAR oil (Gray bottle, blue cap @$4 a quart at Wal-Mart). We have used this oil for over 15 years. It does NOT create clutch slippage! It does allow the clutch to be slipped by the rider, without as much damage to the fibers and steels as organic oils. Alyson Pro Drive 21 <<0W (less than zero weight) and Motorex Top Speed are also fine hp-freeing oils.

Please see the lubricants area in our store for the latest GO FAST oils: http://stores.skipjack.com/brockracing/Search.bok?category=Lubricants

DO NOT RUN low oil levels if you like to do wheelies! Serious engine damage may result. For the street and strip we do not have problems. Although, we usually run the oil level at the low mark in the window for mainly street use with an occasional run at the strip. ***Do not run less than 4 quarts of oil in race engines with the harmonic balancer removed or on bikes equipped with custom oil pans*** 

We do not recommend removing the harmonic balancer on stock engines. Any gain noticed appears to be offset by the additional oil required to prevent the destruction of the crank with the balancer removed under hard acceleration. We are still testing this theory. But we are very sure that guys who have trashed cranks all wish they would have known the potential consequences of the balancer removal BEFORE they attempted it...... 

4. Drive chain: We switch to a non-o-ring chain. The o-ring chains require considerable power to turn due to the friction of the o-rings. The EK 530DR works well for Street/Track use.

OR....We do have a no-cost trick to compensate for this if you have an o-ring chain:  remove the o-rings using a pick, X-acto knife, and needle nose pliers. It takes time, but you won�t believe how much friction has been removed when you spin your rear wheel!

We use the o-ring chains with the o-rings removed because we end up with a chain that is looser than a standard non-o-ring chain. When chains are pressed together-they are tight between the plates and the rollers. If we remove the o-rings, they are much looser because of the extra gap created by removing the o-rings in this area. Not sure what it�s worth for SuperSport etc�.but we try to squeeze every last hundredth out of the bikes.



If you are replacing the chain on a stock wheelbase Busa, be sure to set the chain length for the maximum wheelbase. A mere half inch decrease in stock wheelbase makes these bikes MUCH harder to ride! 

**Special Note***
We have seen improvements of as much as 6 hp removing the o-rings on the dyno!! DO NOT TELL ANYONE ABOUT THIS TRICK.... YOU WILL ONLY BE HURTING YOURSELF!!!   Keep any non o-ring chain oiled. A drop in power can occur in as few as 3-4 passes on the dyno or track. We use light motor oil, the Mobil 1 works well...but it is messy. Standard chain lubes that won't fly off work well for the street, but may hamper your results on the dyno.  

5. Air box/PAIR VALVE MOD etc: Our mod box maps are designed for the following: Brock's box mod as described in the information package received with your Brock's Performance Exhaust System. Brock's Air box lid installed (duct tape works fine to seal the large hole created in the top of the airbox after the filter is removed), stock stacks in the stock positions. NO OTHER MODIFICATIONS TO THE AIRBOX WILL WORK WITH OUR MAPPING!!! Other �Full� box modifications may work well for some applications, but mapping changes must be made. For a stock engine, we find that our box mod works best on the track...even at the expense of a couple of hp on the dyno.

Special Note: Attempting to race your bike without the air box mod is like restrictor plate racing in NASCAR!

In some cases, Especially Hayabusa's, Our Exhaust Systems CAN NOT PRODUCE MAX POWER OR MPH AT THE TRACK WITHOUT OUR SUGGESTED AIR BOX MOD. We call it the StreetSmart SYSTEM for a reason...any pipe manufacturer can make an exhaust pipe. We built our exhaust around the fact that your bike has RAM-AIR......when ALL of the components work in harmony....class-leading performance follows.

We recently completed a dyno/track test session which measured the results of replacing the two long stacks in the airbox with two short stacks. We also tried the PAIR valve technique which uses the vacuum from the valve to vent the crank case. We were VERY impressed with the dyno numbers. We were nearly 6 hp higher(178.3 @108ft.lbs!) at the end of the 2 day test session. We were also VERY surprised when the bike ran nearly 3 mph SLOWER at the track with the Mods installed...regardless of how we tried to tune it!! The ONLY way to get the bike back to it's previous performance was to systematically remove the PAIR valve mod and return the stacks to the stock configuration....while watching the corresponding increase in trap speed and decrease in elapsed time after each change!! Dynos, don't lie, but the bike is stationary during the tests. Very few have access to the type of equipment required to properly test an engine while simulating motion of the machine (including us!). The best way we have found is to trust the engineers who designed the machine and PROVE the dyno results on the track......see note 9!!

Update 8-2008: In recent testing using �Billet� pro velocity stacks in a large displacement modified engine, we had a very large (15+ HP) power LOSS in the higher RPMs with a moderate increase in mid range power. When tested in stock engines, the same basic loss was noticed, although it was not as dramatic.  Varying velocity stack lengths simply MOVES power higher or lower in the rev range depending upon the configuration (longer for low to mid power gains and shorter for peak power gains.) As drag racers, we would not recommend such a change to hamper peak power. Instead we would opt for shorter velocity stacks and perhaps add one tooth to the rear sprocket to obtain maximum acceleration throughout the entire range. If you decide to go the longer stack route, you will need to short-shift your bike. No mapping changes are required.

THIS IS WITH A STOCK ENGINE.....LARGER ENGINES CAN SEE IMPROVEMENTS with 4 short stacks! 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  **Special Information**

If your bike has EVER been reprogrammed with a Yoshimura Fuel Injection Adjuster (Yosh box, clicker box, .etc), it must be returned to the original settings WITH THE YOSH BOX. The Yosh box burns the stock ECU **PERMANENTLY.** The only way to return the ECU to stock, is by using one of these boxes to re-burn the settings. Unplugging the battery cable **WILL NOT** return the settings to zero! The Power Commander conditions the signals before they reach the ECM. If the Yosh box-adjusted settings remain, they will be added or subtracted from our map settings, which makes your Brock's Performance maps no longer perfect for your system. There is no way to tell if your bike has ever been altered with the Yosh box....  If your bike runs and Dynos well, it is fine. We only zero them in problem cases.

We set the idle and all fuel circuits to zero with a Yosh box before beginning any dyno work!

6. Mapping:  Brock's Performance creates maps using a Dynojet Model 250 with the Air/Fuel Ratio probe, then alters them for maximum acceleration and drivability at the track and on the street. Our maps are as perfect as we know how to make them. DO NOT alter the maps unless you know EXACTLY what you are doing. These maps are available to ALL Brock's Performance Exhaust System purchasers, FREE of charge.

E-mail: mapsupport@brockracing.com  to request additional map support.

If your bike runs really bad�. IT IS NOT THE MAP!! You have something else wrong. Check to make sure that the vacuum line to the map sensor (small black box on the left rear of the air box) is firmly attached to the small nipple. Also be sure that the small line to the diaphragm valve, which originally controlled the flapper valve in the airbox, is plugged or attached to the metal nipple on the valve. Remember: Mapping changes are for fine-tuning only.

You can remove the Power Commander COMPLETELY from your STOCK bike and take it for a ride if you suspect you may have a bad unit  WITHOUT DAMAGING your bike! The drivability and performance will suffer and your exhaust may discolor if the unit is disconnected for an extended period....but it will not hurt your engine. Of course if it definitely runs better, contact Brock's Performance for further instructions.

We have discovered a slight obstacle in the Hayabusa EFI's ability to correct for extreme temperature changes and still maintain optimum power for these conditions on the older PC2 units. The PC3 and PC3-USB models correct MUCH better. The maps supplied with your Brock's Performance System were developed for use under standard conditions of approximately 60 degrees Fahrenheit (F) with low to moderate humidity levels. These maps perform best at temperatures +/- 20 degrees F from this standard (+40F to +80F). If you are racing with a PC2 and stock engine in conditions hotter than this or in an extremely humid environment, you may wish to try our Hot Weather map. This applies to cooler conditions or tuning environments involving modified engines, contact us directly for assistance. E-mail: brock@brockracing.com

Again, the PC3 and PC3-USB units do compensate much better than the PC2's...we have yet to see a need for hot weather maps in the 2002 and newer Bikes equipped with PC3r's. 

We have noticed a slight need in some cases...please request a map directly: brock@brockracing.com

Please do not assume that you must give up ANY drivability after installing the system!

Your bike should actually drive smoother than stock with the filter installed, even after the airbox modification is performed. There may be a slight stumble at around 2500 RPM with the filter removed. But, this is not noticeable at the track during the launch.

7. PAIR Valve: PAIR valve must be blocked. Block off plates work well. A marble in the large black line from the PAIR valve on the front of the engine to the right rear airbox nipple also works well. We install a vacuum cap on the box nipple and then re-install the hose. Your bike will probably not pass an emissions test with these changes! Do not attach your pair valve hose to the crank case breather!!! See note #9.

Brock's Performance has a block off kit available: 
http://stores.skipjack.com/brockracing/Detail.bok?no=60

 

8. 4th gear pull: We use a 16-tooth front sprocket. The length of time a bike accelerates will occasionally affect dyno results. This is not always the case; it depends on the model Dyno being used. 

9. ***Make no other changes to the stock machine!*** The multi-million dollar research and development team that designed this machine did everything for a reason. Unless you are on a dyno, 9 out of 10 changes made will LOSE power or create the potential to damage your engine. We will NEVER suggest a change that has not been thoroughly tested by Brock's Performance in a fashion consistent with our past non-bias test efforts. The drag strip is nothing more than a tool we use to MEASURE results�it does not lie when used properly. We will let you in on definite improvements as they become available.

9. continued-TRE Installation: **Plug in devices that alter the stock timing advance or retard curves are NOT recommended** (TRE, Ivan mod etc.).... We slow down on the track using them, which means you will slow down on the street.... regardless of what your seat-of-the-pants tells you. If you race any distance up to 6th gear or like to out-accelerate the person next to you, this product will definitely slow you down. Our repeated testing on the track with numerous bikes confirms this result. It is fine for Bonneville and guys who like to wheelie. See note #9. 

BUT WAIT.....Killing Power can be a GOOD thing if you are fighting wheelies! We began using the TRE in conjunction with our Brick: http://stores.skipjack.com/brockracing/Detail.bok?no=88

On 2002-2007 Hayabusa's AND short wheelbase bikes with modified engines. The newer Busa's with the 32 bit processor (in the stock ECU) have FAR MORE bottom-end power than the 99-01's. This additional power leads to wheelie control issues. It's hard to measure....but there is a serious power drop after about 4500 rpm, mainly in first and second gear. PERFECT to allow the rider to get the gas completely open...which leads to much quicker ET's.

I would be willing to bet that there is a 30 hp loss in first gear and 15-20 in second gear when using a TRE on a 220 HP engine! It is a MUST for short wheelbase bikes which are hard to ride....We set up a stock wheelbase Busa with this much power, a TRE, and a brick...5.80's at 129 MPH in the 1/8 and 8.79@160 in the quarter on nuts! The bike is completely unridable without the power killer and weight.

If you decide to run a TRE to perfect your combination, there are NO MAP CHANGES REQUIRED.

 

10. Front Tire: We run as much as 50 PSI in the front tire to reduce rolling resistance at the track only. NOT ON THE STREET! Use your own discretion; some guys don�t feel comfortable doing this. Please be cautious when stopping after your dry-hop. Most good jockeys realize that grabbing a big hand-full of front break lever at any time on the strip is a sure way to scratch your bike (or yourself!).  Additional air in the front tire only compounds this problem. This is why most professional riders stop with the rear break after the dry hop. High front tire pressure is dangerous and not recommended by the tire manufacturers. This tuning technique should only be attempted by experienced riders on a closed course.

---------------------------------------------------FEB 25 Changes above- more to follow soon------------------------------ 

11. Shifting: If you do not have an air shifter, the proper way to shift your bike is to preload (apply upward pressure) the shifter with your foot then quickly �blip� the throttle while shifting up...without using the clutch! If you hold the gas open and �fan� the clutch on a 170 hp engine, the clutch slips uncontrollably and never catches up. We have seen a couple tenths and 2-3 mph improvements at the track by riders who change their shifting style. DO NOT EVER downshift without the clutch!! At the end of the run, PLEASE pull in the clutch! In drag racing...engines are for speeding up and brakes are for slowing down! If someone ever asked me to intentionally create a cam chain tensioned failure, or to stretch the cam chain to the point where the bike won't run properly any longer... I would rev the engine to a high RPM/load situation, then I would slam the gas shut and engine-brake the bike on the track or the dyno! 

12. Fuel Level: No one wants to carry more fuel (weight) at the track than necessary. The Hayabusa has a high pressure Fuel Injection system. If you don�t have enough fuel in the tank to constantly supply the pump during the launch (or wheelies), when the fuel sloshes around, the bike's performance will suffer. We usually run just above the red zone on the stock fuel gauge. 

13. Engine Mods: Our current maps are for stock engines. Any changes to the engine configuration (cams, pistons, etc.) could alter the mapping required for optimum performance of your machine. We are currently testing BDE-designed parts to add to the StreetSmart TM line of products. They will be available soon with the required mapping. If you already have modifications to your engine, you must find a competent operator with a Dynojet Model 250 and Air/Fuel Sniffer. Anything else is pissing into the wind with these bikes! For a list of tuning centers in your area, log on to color=#0000ffwww.powercomander.com

We will supply maps for modified engines to StreetSmart Owners.
e-mail brock@brockracing.com for details and applications.

14. Cleaning the Titanium Canister: We have had the best results using Honda spray cleaner & polish. Do not use any type of harsh chemicals or abrasives; the logos are only stickers�they will fall off!  

15. Power Commander buttons: We have seen little or no improvement by adjusting the PowerCmmand buttons on the dyno or track. We have KILLED as much as 15 hp by adjusting them too far on the dyno!!! Leave them alone. If you feel that you have a special situation that may require minor mapping changes, ask for advice. We will do everything possible to point you in the right direction. We have now realized that the buttons make 2-dimensional changes to 3-dimensional mapping!!!

You will notice that the power commander V HAS NO BUTTONS! We believe this is an attempt to remedy a problem which has occurred  for years. If you have changed your buttons to compensate for any problems or special situations, please reload our latest map. This is the only way to know where you are! The buttons are guessing and it is bad form to tune from a guess.....it always comes back to get you later! 

***This is true with Dry Nitrous systems also!***

We usually slow down more with the button changes than the Dry Nitrous helps........40 hp with no changes works well. Over 40 hp needs map changes MADE IN THE COMPUTER....NOT the buttons...EVER.

We feel that anything over 40 hp with dry nitrous is potentially damaging to the engine.....greedy guys should look into a well-designed wet system.

16. Dynojet maps from powercommander.com: Dynojet supplies maps on their site after they test a specific pipe. They typically test with a stock airbox in the Nevada desert heat. They make no changes to the mapping from trackside experience. They are generic maps for the generic rider. BDE maps are for the performance enthusiast who purchased a �known good� COMBINATION because they always work better!  

17. Clutch: The BDE clutch mod is designed for stock engine machines. (The little ring sold by others will never work! We wouldn�t go through all of this clutch core hassle if it did!).

The Hayabusa clutch is designed to run VERY dry from the factory (to keep clutch debris from entering the oil and reducing engine life?), the small quantities of oil we run make the problem worse. If the clutch is dry, it tends to become grabby. A revolution of riders have begun tilting their bike over to the clutch side with the engine running (while repeatedly pulling and releasing the clutch lever and blipping the throttle) in an attempt to supply more oil to the clutch before each run. DO NOT DROP YOUR BIKE!!!! This works for most racers. But, even this is not always enough. The only real solution we have found to a grabby clutch is; remove the plates, coat (or soak) them in oil and re-install. We are working on the only true cure to the chatter/grab problem (in the tradition of the clutch cushion).

Call or see our store for S13-CCK Clutch Cushion Kits applications and pricing.

18. After-market air filters: We are currently testing after-market air filters on the dyno and track. We have lost performance with the K&N Street filters in non-bias testing on the dyno (especially when over-oiled). We are currently testing the BMC's. You will never go wrong with stock. The results will be posted as soon as the track testing is complete.

The results are in... Stock filter on the street, Air box lid on the track.

PERIOD!

The gauze type filters restrict air flow due to the oil required for proper filtration. This also creates a lack of air to the engine WHICH SCREWS UP THE MAPPING YOU RECEIVED WITH YOUR PURCHASE!!

If you clean the oil from the filter...the performance can be restored. BUT then.. THE FILTERING QUALITY IS WORSE THAN STOCK!!!!

The BMC standard filters lose as much HP as the K&N's....they are nearly identical. We have customers using the BMC and K&N race in dusty or sandy areas...Florida for example. They hurt performance compared to no filter....but they can ensure a longer engine life in these extremes.  Neither brand race filter is suggested for continuous street use.


UPDATE  2016: The Sprint Filter P08 material makes as much HP as the BMC race filter, but filters as well as stock. The P16 material works like no filter at all, but protects your engine.

19. Heat-soaking: There is a condition we are familiar with known as heat-soaking. Once the engine is heated to normal or above normal temperatures, the performance will suffer on the dyno and the track. After the cylinder head casting and surrounding engine components have been sufficiently heated, the engine must be allowed to cool for optimum power. We have noticed 5-10 hp losses on the dyno with a heat-soaked engine. Our "bragging rights" pulls are normally noticed on the second or third pulls on a slightly warmed engine.

20. Manual cam chain tensioner: We do not recommend a manual tensioner for street use with STOCK engines. The hyvo cam chain used in the Hayabusa does not have much engagement on the gears. As the cam chain stretches or wears, the tension must be constantly monitored. Otherwise, the engine will be MORE likely to jump timing than with the stock tensioner. We use the latest tensioner mod, even though it occasionally shows a loss of power on the dyno after installation.

21. KWS Power Commander-II with additional timing retard: The KWS nitrous PC-II will work well with the StreetSmart TM package. ****BUT**** you must manually adjust the timing settings in table 4. If the existing settings remain, a 2x increase in the timing retard will be noticed. Example: -3 timing retard will actually produce -6 degrees of retard....this will hurt the power output of the machine without nitrous. If you do not understand how to do this, email color=#0000ffadvice@brockracing.com and ask for a modified map or instructions.

22. Rear wheel air cowl: The little wing in front of the rear wheel MUST be on the bike to make use of the entire aerodynamic package. Top speed guys have reported a loss of 7-9 mph in top speed by removing this wing!! (No kidding). Drag racers have reported a 1-1.5 MPH reduction in trap speed by removing it. Most racers remove the wing because it tends to drag the ground with the bike lowered (This is dangerous!). If this happens, your shock is probably too soft for your body weight. Add tension to the spring, or run the BDE dog bone in position #2 if the rider is exceptionally "big boned."  We have verified a 1 tenth improvement in et with regular-sized riders with the bike in the lower #3 setting versus the #2. So, try not to adjust the dog bone position for the track unless you absolutely must.

23. Burn outs: We always perform the burn out in 1st gear at a moderate rpm (around 6000).We usually roll the bike from left to right to clean as much of the tire surface as possible. The Mickey Thompson tire is so soft that a large amount of heat usually makes it work worse. For most applications, a brief burn out that cleans the debris off of the tire and produces a small amount of smoke is fine. If the bike tries to pull out of the water box, let it go - you are ready.

24. Aftermarket Velocity Stacks: we have found aftermarket velocity stacks to be counterproductive for drag racing. Most of the stacks are longer than the OEM version of the shortest stack available for the bike, which leads to increased mid range power but comes at a reduction in peak power. Because drag race bikes spends so much time close to the rev limiter, the addition of aftermarket velocity stacks typically hampers peak speeds on the drag strip and also in land speed racing. We will continue our velocity stack testing and make any productive aftermarket velocity stacks available as soon as we believe they will provide an adequate increase in performance.

Do not perform the burn out in 2nd or 3rd gear!! The tire speed and load is so severe, tire and clutch damage are possible in a short amount of time!

Also, do not drive through the water box!!  Not only do you run the risk of crashing after your dry-hop due to the water on your front tire, but any water that gathers in the tread of your STREET tire can be slung on the track during the launch, which causes the tire to immediately spin. We perform the burn out in a slightly damp part of the box in front of the water.

DO NOT tip the bike to its side with the clutch cushion installed!
This will cause too much slip on the launch and potential clutch failure.

If your clutch is grabby **AT ALL ** with the clutch cushion, something is worn out in that area. It is usually the inner basket ($60 for new) and occasionally the outer basket ($175 new).

24. High Volume oil pump gears: It has been our experience in the past that spinning the oil pump faster requires more power than spinning it stock. We have had reports of several customers losing power when installing the gears on a stock engine. WE HAVE NOT MEASURED THIS OURSELVES ON THE DYNO OR AT THE TRACK!!! We will do it ASAP. We are just relaying this information in an attempt to prevent StreetSmart customers from purchasing a part which may slow them down.

25. Crank case vent:  We have noticed a performance increase at the track and on the dyno by removing the hose from the crank case breather to the air box, plugging the nipple on the box with a vacuum cap, and allowing the crank breather to vent directly to the atmosphere. This seems to work exceptionally well on older machines. Because of the increased blow-by past the rings, the pressure from the ram air fights the bike's additional need to evacuate these pressures. Venting to atmosphere (actually less than atmosphere due to the pressure drop created by the wind passing around the fairings!) allows the pressure to escape without as much of a pressure load on the underside of the pistons.  This allows more power potential from these naturally "loose" engines. New engines benefit also, just not as much....yet!

Caution!!!!   DIRECT THE NEW BREATHER HOSE INTO A CATCH CAN!!! This will prevent oil from getting on the rear tire if you have a problem which requires excessive venting of oil. 

26. Spark Plug Gap. We keep them tight .022 inch. The Busa combustion chamber is very efficient. The small, strong gap has worked well on the dyno and race track using all fuels, so we stick with it.

YOU MUST read and follow the �How to Slam and prep a �Busa� Parts 1 and 2 and other technical articles on our site. The major difference between those who go fast and those who don�t�is KNOWLEDGE. We are supplying the information, but we can�t make you read it. If you are serious about your performance, you will learn to follow our advice, and YOUR results will speak for themselves at the track.  

Remember, you PAID for this system and advice. Do not distribute it! It will only come back to haunt you in the form of others getting closer to YOUR performance. 

Good Luck,

Brock

PS... 
See note #9!!!!

Also, if we ever think that you have given up your log-in information or any other StreetSmart owners' group information to another (or have unjustly defaced a BDE product in public) ....you will immediately be removed from the information program!

 

Sorry, this is the only way we can support the integrity of the other members who choose to follow the rules.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

2004 updates added to this page June17 2006

StreetSmart Owners,

Nothing much has changed with STOCK Hayabusa's in the StreetSmart Owners' Section over what I sent you previously (Let me know if you need another copy). We had a team of 3-5 guys gathering data on stock bikes at the track for over 1 year!......

The 2002-04 season has proved that Stock engine bikes can't really go any faster than the information we have already provided....(Chassis changes can get you into the low nines, and the dry nitrous systems seem to be working well.)

With "how to slam and prep" parts 1 and 2 and the StreetSmart owners' group information followed COMPLETELY and EXACTLY....YOUR BIKE can run 9.30's at 148+ MPH...with a good/average-sized rider in reasonable air, under good track conditions.(Quicker and faster times than this have been run by some of our customers under optimum conditions!)

I have no idea if YOU can go this quick on it..... (Practice.....Practice....Practice...with the bike set up properly.)

We are currently testing our new top-end engine kits with fantastic results....and gathering data for the "modified engine" StreetSmart Owners' Group.

We should have the kits available in late Summer or early Fall.

Send me an e-mail at advice@brockracing.com

if you would like some recent data sent to you.

Most StreetSmart Owners' Section additions are related to problems as opposed to performance.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

SPECIAL NOTE:

**** DANGER....High Horsepower engines (and inexperienced

and/or over-aggressive riders) are hard on clutches under drag race conditions.*****

We typically get about 25-40 passes on a short wheelbase bike with 205-225 RWHP (With OEM stock clutch packs...after-markets fail sooner.), half a season is typical with stock machines.....  If you experience a catastrophic clutch failure with a modified or STOCK engine, this means you have sprayed large amounts of clutch debris around the inside of your outer clutch basket.

THE SCREEN IN YOUR ENGINE OIL STRAINER MUST BE CLEANED AFTER EVERY TIME IT HAPPENS!!!!

 This is accomplished by removing the oil pan and plastic strainer(Suzuki part #:16520-24F00....consult your manual or dealer if necessary) and cleaning the screen completely of any clutch debris. Re-assembly (use grease to hold the o-ring in place) and replace the engine oil with a fully synthetic oil after any clutch failure.

***FAILURE TO REMOVE THE DEBRIS AFTER A CLUTCH PROBLEM CAN LEAD TO CRANKSHAFT BEARING FAILURE****** 

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

On a lighter note:

1. Heat wrap on the front of your pipe burns up your muffler and stickers in the rear.(And provides NO measurable gain in performance while doing it..)

2. Non-resistor plugs or a chrome side cover can cause your pc-2 to malfunction.

3. Be sure your fast idle cable is not getting caught on the bottom of your ignition switch.

4. If your bike runs erratic, check your kickstand switch/tab on the stand.

5. Clean the yellow off of your stainless with an industrial strength toilet bowl cleaner and a soft bowl swab. (Air City Janitorial Supply, Dayton Ohio ph 937-298-7293: Instant Bowl Cleanse with 27.64% Hydrogen Chloride).

ZERO rubbing or work....the tarnish falls off like something out of a late night infomercial! FOR REAL. Remove the pipe from the bike.  Use gloves in a well-ventilated area. Swab the non-diluted cleaner over the stainless sections of the pipe. (Do not use on the Ti or carbon mufflers, AND keep it away from the stickers.) Thoroughly rinse pipe with water.

6. If your bike appears to have a wiring problem, remove all after-market additions and begin again. The stock wiring does not EVER go bad....E-V-E-R.

7. Do not remove the clutch lever from the bike while changing the lever cam....clutch slippage may result if the brass slug is aligned wrong on re-assembly.

8. If you drag race or dead stop launch your bike at all.....Fully synthetic motor oil MUST be used, and the bike MUST be re-geared to ensure long clutch life.... And you MUST have a Clutch mod...fighting the chatter/grab of stock destroys clutches in short order.

Special Note:

YOU MUST INSPECT YOUR INNER CLUTCH HUB FOR NOTCHES! (Suzuki Part#: xxxxx-xxxxx)

If the hub is notched, the plates can�t slide freely.

If they bind on the hub, it is IMPOSSIBLE for the clutch to function properly!!!

*** Repeated Clutch failures are assured if the inner hub is not repaired or replaced.***

9. If your throttle response is not as smooth or smoother than stock, or the transition from one RPM to another is not as crisp as you expect it to be, check to be sure your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is adjusted properly. This can be adjusted with the help of your service manual, a safety(or drilled tip) Torx bit and a paper clip to jump your dealer mode connector. It is also wise to check the cylinder-to-cylinder synchronization if you are experiencing problems.

The rest is related to the 2002 Hayabusa's with PC-IIIr's.

10. Be sure to connect all of the wires on your pc-3r. Especially the wires leading to the ignition section.

11. The 2002's seem to have a bit of a hot-start problem with PC3's and 3R's. Crack the gas (@1/8 throttle) when starting the bike. We have had multiple reports of broken starter gears with this year machine. If this fails, 0DISCONNECT the ignition section of the unit.

All of this info will be in the secure area once it finally appears....different levels of access, etc. It is proving to be very complicated but worth the wait.

Thanks and I'll keep you posted!

Brock

Back to Top
Brock View Drop Down
Admin Group
Admin Group


Joined: October/01/2003
Location: Dayton, OH
Status: Offline
Points: 232
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September/26/2003 at 10:32am

Hello everyone!

We have been working non-stop all summer to develop new mapping combinations. 

As usual: after spending hundreds of hours and thousands of dollarswe dont simply have a download here in the forum.  

To obtain a map, simply e-mail brock@brockracing.com and request the number listed below. 

*PLEASE INCLUDE YOUR FULL NAME AS IT WOULD APPEAR IN OUR CUSTOMER FILE**otherwise you will not receive a map.

Some of the new maps are available for:

  1. Stock engine 2002-2003 Busa with a pc3r and Generation 3 Exhaust. This map was developed for use in warmer climates, BUT works well in good air also! It has been proven at the track with 87 Octane Pump fuel/ Nutec special 5 and Special 5+/ and VP-MR1.

    The Track map number is: BDE-027B-G3.MAP
    The Dyno map number is: BDE-027B-G3-Dyno.MAP

  2. Stock engine 2002-2003 ZX-12 with a pc3r and Generation 3 Exhaust. This map works well in all climates with 93 octane pump fuel and made an AMAZING 184 RWHP (STD scale) on our dyno with Special 5+ Nutec! Fantastic drivability with a power rating that makes stock Busas jealous
    Ask for : BDE-ZX12-02A-D for the Dyno map-T for the track map.


  3. 1397 engine 2002-2003 Busa with a pc3r and Generation 3 Exhaust. Crazy power and superb drivability with Nutec Special 5 or 5+.
    Ask for BDE-032-84-D for the Dyno map-T for the track map.

  4. Stock bore JE piston/web cam engine 2002-2003 Busa with a pc3r and Generation 3 Exhaust. Spot on drivability and very good power.
    Ask for BDE-031-SB-D for the Dyno map-T for the track map.


  5. Stock piston intake on the exhaust engine 1999-2001 Busa with a pc2 and Generation 3 Exhaust and ported head. 198 RWHPenough said. Oh yes, drives around like a stocker!
    ask for: BDE-016-SB.map



Please e-mail me with your exact engine combination to receive ANY modified engine maps!

We have many to choose from..and the list keeps getting bigger. 

Brock

Back to Top
Brock View Drop Down
Admin Group
Admin Group


Joined: October/01/2003
Location: Dayton, OH
Status: Offline
Points: 232
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November/17/2003 at 4:05pm

Special 2002-04 **ONLY** Hayabusa Update. (And perhaps some GSXR 1000s)

Well. this one is going to throw some guys for a loop.  

As usual, the High Performance world is ever changing. What has worked, or not worked, for years on some models suddenly becomes usable on other years or makes. 

This is the case with the TRE on the 02-04 Hayabusas.  The 02-04 Busas have DRAMATICALLY MORE power in FIRST GEAR than the 99-01 Hayabusas. As we originally reported in our How to Slam and Prep a Busa Part 2. There is absolutely NO DOUBT that the TRE kills power after the initial launch in first gear (from about 4500 rpm to red line.). This power loss on stock engine 99-01s was enough to hurt the ET in the 1/8 and mile. It is very difficult to measure exactly how much HP is killed due to the tire spin associated with 1st gear pulls. Our best estimate is 20-30 HP in 1st gear and perhaps 10-15 HP in second gear with MODIFIED engines. The stock engines see approximately of this reduction in power. 

The 02-04s stock wheelbase Busas have a WHEELIE PROBLEM in the top of first gear that the earlier Busas DID NOT have. We tried gearing and suspension changes on many different test bikes with minimal results. 

All of the stock wheelbase 02-04s required the 1-2 shift to be performed IN THE AIR. This leads to the rider fighting the bike, especially when foot shifting. The power reduction the TRE causes in the top of first gear is sufficient enough to help prevent this fighting which actually leads to a quicker Elapsed time from having less power IN THE RIGHT SPOT. More power is always betterIF you can control it. When left uncontrolled, the results are usually(and consistently), undesirable in the E.T. department.

From third gear on, much more power can be applied without the concern for wheelies. Smoothness is the key to quickness and there is a serious lack of smoothness if you have to chop the gas before the second gear shift! 

To add to the confusionthis lack in power actually HELPS the MPH.

This is due to the added smoothness of not interrupting the acceleration of the bike. A good example of this would be to measure the MPH at the 330 ft clocks. If a rider has to chop or hang the throttle (This maneuver is to delay screwing the throttle to the wide open position and waiting for the front end to drop enough to begin screwing the gas on again) or wait for any wheelie inspired reason to shift the bike 

Wellperhaps some math would help:

On my travel channel Busa 9.32 pass, my ET in the 330 was a 3.98 at a mathematical 97.4 MPH. The results were 120.36 1/8 MPH and 148.08 MPH in the quarter. 

On previous passes without the Brick and with the TRE only, my 330 after hanging the gas to control a wheelie averaged 4.07 at a mathematical 95.2 MPH. This lead to around 118 MPH in the 1/8 mile and 146 ish mile mph's. 

The moral of the story is that if a bike is traveling 2 mph faster at the 330 clocksit is much easer and more likely that the 1/8 and MPHs will follow suit.assuming that the conditions remain the same. (We fought head winds all through last fall; it really screws up MPH and E.T.s!)  

Questioning Suzuki about the added power and torque of the 02-04s over the early Busas leads us to believe that the major difference is in the ignition system, NOT the engine. Suzuki claims the engines are completely unchanged in the power department. A long winded explanation would include the number of pulses per second of crankshaft rotation and the fact that the Pc3rs work better than the pc2s. But it is out of the realm of this note. 

Yet again, a COMBINATION was the key to success. The Brick worked wonders, but the Brick AND the TRE is what lead us to the world class numbers. Im not trying to seem grandiose which such statements. You must realize... I have made THOUSANDS of passes foot shifting stock wheelbase Hayabusas since 1999. My previous best ET in the 330 was a 4.07 and a best 1/8 mile ET of a 6.07out of ALL of those 1000s of passes? 

To jump the wall and pick up 5- 100ths is a substantial feat because EVERY SINGLE previous pass in the last four years was intended to go fasterbut it didnt happenuntil now. 

Naturally, if your chassis is modified enough (extended swingarm etc.) that the extra power does not result in a wheelie problem.then the TRE will probably slow you down. Some of our GSXR 1000 customers have also benefited from a lack in 1st gear power. 

Of course, this also depends on your riding style. Some guys naturally try TOO HARDwe have seen ET improvements because the lack of power caused by the TRE has masked an improper riding style. Go with what works for YOU.that is all that matters. 

The choice is yourswe only try to steer you to the most direct route according to our tests. 

Good Luck and GO FASTER!!!! 

Brock

 

 

Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.01
Copyright ©2001-2018 Web Wiz Ltd.