Guys,

Be sure to read my street engine break-in procedure, especially if you built your own engine: https://forums.brocksperformance.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=6&title=streetbike-engine-breakin-procedure

Otherwise, most areas of that old article (after initial start-up) applies to your new Sportbike... especially the part about NOT being afraid to get on it!

I'm not saying to stomp the hell out of your new bike (although, "ride it like you stole it" has worked for many riders - and was the recent advice from one of the top sources available,) but I will say that there are numerous reasons to get close to redline -every once in a while- if you want to extract the most HP out of your new ride.

It is important to gas-load the rings for proper seating, BUT remember:

In the ‘old days,’ the rings were harder than the cast iron sleeves. Seating took MUCH LONGER because the entire surface area of the liner had to conform to the harder surface of the ring faces. These days, the bore coating is nickel/silicon carbide based. It takes diamond-embedded stones just to hone it. The bore is harder than the ring faces which means only the small surface of the rings has to conform to the bore.  I believe this occurs in the first few minutes of operation. Your rings were most likely seated at Kawasaki/Suzuki, etc...  before you ever ride home.

I feel it is MORE important to NOT allow a large carbon build-up in the cylinders above the rings. This carbon can scratch your rings and cause high RPM ring 'flutter.' We have seen some of the most gently broken-in engines make the LEAST power on the dyno and spray engine oil from the breather when we finally allow the engine to reach high RPM operation. During high revs, many variables allow the rings to rise higher in the bore:  rod stretch, piston rock, natural bearing clearance, oil type, and flex just to name a few.  This is the reason we are so specific about measured assembled clearance with our Top End Kits: http://brocksperformance.com/content/Instructions/OTHER/BBP-MAC.pdf

If these items didn't exist, we could set all engines at zero and be on our way; but they do exist in every combustion engine, so we must compensate accordingly.

FYI:  Once the rings collide with a thick carbon layer, the above mentioned problems can occur. Some bikes recover just fine, and some don't ever make the correct power until the damaged rings are replaced. Naturally, some build up is normal, but occasional high RPM operation helps prevent the damaging thick build up.

Most break-in these days relates more to moving parts in the transmission and drive train, in addition to bearing surfaces. Too much load too soon can cause problems. We see very little bearing scuff these days, but it can happen. This is why I have NO PROBLEM using fully synthetic motor oil much sooner -in the life of the engine- than in the past. In fact, we actually break-in some big stroker engines on fully synthetic because we see more bearing issues than problems with the rings seating, especially with after-market billet crankshafts.

Of course, I would have NEVER performed a full load tuning session on the dyno with my brand new ZX-14 without following our proper break-in.  I know better.  But I wasn't afraid to be aggressive under real-world operating conditions. The good news is that today's engines are built to withstand aggressive power delivery with only VERY timid operation from ‘grandpa-type’ riders being the main culprits of poor power output. Understand, I would never suggest anyone break the law or put themselves or anyone else at risk on the street, but I would suggest that you look for your local drag strip and go play!

Brock

PS. Don't believe me? Check out this article from August 2018 from Engine Labs: https://www.enginelabs.com/news/dispelling-engine-break-in-myths-with-high-performance-academy/

Sorry for the late response!

I watch the posts to be sure guys like Tommy are pointing you in the right direction. He IS- as well as others!

 I am always impressed with the knowledge of our customers and friends. 

I tested the 0W-20 Alisyn and was not as happy compared to the <<0-- I lost 1 HP and don't see a real reason to go thicker since we have never had any oil related problems since using the <<0 beginning in 1997. 

I use the <<0 Alisyn for drag strip use in STOCK engines up to about 200 HP. I have had it in my ZX-14 since 100 miles and it just made 196HP in the heat well over 1 year later. FYI: My old Busa has been running it since 2001 and just ran a 9.40 (stock wheelbase/foot shifting) after TWO different owners! (one was not easy on bikes... enough said!) 

I used 5W-30 Mobil 1 car oil for everything else except modified engines making over 210-220 RWHP- in this case I use the 10W-30 Mobil 1 car oil up to and over 500 HP (shootout turbos and/or nitrous, etc.) 

I hope this helps clear things up. 

Brock

I used 5W-30 in one bike and 10W-30 in one bike. I couldn't remember what Brock said or what I was told. Now I see 0W-20. Both bikes got Mobile 1 Fully Synthetic. Should I dump the oil out both bike and use 0W-20

Im still confused about the oil. i ride on the street and track.And in HOUSTON WHERE ITS REALLY HOT!

mr brock, or fellow member,i"ve broken the engine close to manual,give or take the odd hand full.i"ve never past 10000rpm.i am switching to the 0w-20 syn mobil 1.in regards to the carbon build up brock spoke about in break in.is there any way to know if you have that build up before i start maxing rpm to red line.i"ve used best fuel i could find, and also added stp octane booster to the last few tank fulls.

please help,as i"m ready to max out the shift range.

hello all.i just bought the mobil 1,   0w-20 fully synthetic motor oil.it quots outstanding protection for newer vehicles including hybrids.

is this the same as discused on your site?and this will be my second oil change,i have just over 630miles and will be doing the first service at dealer,and the first oil change was done at 300 miles with dealer oil.

please help, as i"m told if you start using syn ,thats what you use from there forward.which is fine by me.

need some good advise,thank you all.

We sell the <<0  (less than zero weight!) Alisyn for the guys who wish to squeak the last bit of power from their engine (up to around 175 RWHP). Is it the best we have found?  We have run it in our SuperSport bikes for years.

I am currently testing Alisyn 0W-20 for use in engines like the ZX-14 which make around 200 hp....it should be part of my next Diary.

For most Mobil 1 fully synthetic Car Oil (Wal-Mart @$4 per Quart - Grey bottle/Blue cap) is the easiest and least expensive and most readily available oil.

Brock

ps. NO...it will not make your clutches slip! It is the only way we can KEEP a clutch in a Busa.